#77 Sorella

Roasted beet & shaved fennel salad $14

Bright, crunchy haricots verts combined with thin shavings of crisp fennel and small, delicate roasted beets. Muddled with chunks of pistachio and slices of spicy serrano pepper. Dressed in a light and creamy tonnato sauce.

Little gem and sweet corn salad $15

A friend and I described this dish as a tasty hybrid of a classic cesar salad and good ol’ Southern corn. Big, crunchy leaves of little gem lettuce, mixed with smooth ricotta salata, fluffy cornbread and covered with shavings of Grana cheese. Served with an unusual and interesting crème fraîche –chili dressing. Personally, I found this dish overwhelmingly heavy but both my dining companion and my friend enjoyed it.

Ricotta gnocchi $23

This was one of the daily specials when we dined at Sorella. The gnocchi were absolutely perfect; small doughy balls, oozing with rich, creamy ricotta. Each perfectly sized piece bursting with gooey cheese and smooth flavors. Served with slivers of tender braised pork, rich slow roasted tomatoes and diced Caselvetrano olives (incidentally, the folks at Frankies 457 are also fans of these olives). Garnished with a generous serving of Grana Padano cheese.

Risotto $18

A pleasant portion of hearty homemade risotto. The pasta was al dente (perhaps a bit too much so for my dining companion), mixed with intense porcini mushrooms and salty guanciale, which is an unsmoked Italian bacon, often prepared with pig’s cheeks of jowl. Smothered with delicious pecorino oro antico cheese.

Gelati $8

To finish, we opted for three scoops of Sorella’s incredible-sounding gelati.

- Chunky Sorella: Salted caramel gelato flecked with chocolate-covered pretzels and punctuated with an intense fudge swirl. Definitely our favorite of the three.

- Bananimal: Banana gelato muddled with caramel-covered animal crackers and a sweet caramel swirl.

- Buttercrunch: Brown sugar gelato with buttercrunch toffee and a smooth milk chocolate ganache. This was our least favorite option, as we found the buttercrunch ice cream a bit bland.

While I’d been meaning to eat at Sorella for sometime, I pushed it to the top of my list on a recommendation from a friend. To be totally honest, I’m very glad I did. Push past the discreet looking door on Allen street to first enter into a bar space with high tables and then into a larger dining room. The space is simple but warm, with thick wooden tables, comfortable felt-covered chairs and small tea lights dotted around the restaurant. The servers, who are chatty and knowledgeable, work with a refreshing enthusiasm, proudly showing their own appreciation of the food available.

As for the cuisine, chef Emma Hearst and her partner Sarah Krathen have drawn on their experiences in Piedmont, Italy to create an elegant and authentic menu full of tasty, cheesy treats. We really did enjoy all of our savory dishes, marveling at the jovial flavors. Where Sorella really disappoints, however, is in the dessert department. All of the dishes available sound delicious but sadly overpromise. While they aren’t pictured, we had a ‘bicerin’ (a pot de crème of sorts, with espresso fudge and chocolate pudding garnished with soft whipped cream) and a tartelette (a small tart with almond cream, marinated cherries and a scoop of cherry-cream gelato). Both of these were pretty bland.

With that in mind, definitely head to Sorella to check out the awesome savory dishes but be sure to skip dessert. You won’t regret it!

Sorella

95 Allen St.

212-274-9595

#60 Scarpetta

Creamy polenta $18 (not pictured)

This dish was rather elegantly prepared. Our server presented us with a small bowl of buttery polenta and slowly covered it with a rich, mushroom sauce. The polenta itself was velvety smooth, warm mouthfuls of truffle-infused goodness. The sauce was a flavorful fricasse of intense chanterelle mushrooms. A rich, hearty and delicious way to begin our meal.

Tajarin $25

This appealing dish definitely delivered on its promises. Long strands of hearty homemade pasta in a creamy sauce. Tender morsels of veal sweetbreads, shreds of crunchy zucchini and thin slivers of spicy jalapeño pepper.

Black tagliolini $28

A hefty serving of homemade tagliolini. Served in a flavorful seafood ragout made of mussels, calamari, shrimp and sea urchin. Muddled with crunchy basil breadcrumbs

Warm rhubarb tart $12

Rhubarb is always a special ingredient for me. I remember learning about the plant (and its poison) at primary school. Ever since I found that out, it’s held a special allure. Given that I was looking for something light and unusual, I ordered the rhubarb tart.

The base was a crumbly, buttery biscuit. Slightly crisp but moist. The spears of tart rhubarb on top were a bit chewy but pleasant. The candied macadamia nuts, however, just didn’t work. They were cumbersome to eat, falling all over the plate. Plus, they were too sweet. Instead, it might have been interesting to add almond paste into the base, which would have added smooth nutty flavors in a more diner-friendly manner. The basil yoghurt on the side was interesting but was a bit too strong. Instead, I would have suggested a crème fraiche.

Having eaten at Scarpetta once, I was excited to return and confirm/dismiss my prior conclusions. Previously, the pasta was excellent but the main courses underwhelmed. With this in mind, we decided to stick mainly with pasta and order a couple additional dishes. The polenta was delicious and, as before, the pasta was wonderful. Interesting, creative options that were rich and flavorful. The dessert, however, was unimpressive.

The dining room is a little awkward. Lodged in the back of the restaurant, it’s kind of boxy. Seats around the edges with a lot of smaller tables in the middle. In fact, despite the dim lighting and leather banquettes, the whole thing is a little bit corporate. Overall, Scarpetta has great pasta and decent food but it’s not the most interesting place to eat.

Scarpetta

355 W. 14th St.

212-691-0555

#81 Casa Lever

Carciofi $20

Tart, thinly sliced artichokes on a vast bed of crunchy, bitter baby arugula. Tossed in a light balsamic vinaigrette (a little bit overdressed) and garnished with shavings of intense parmesan. This salad would have been a lot more interesting if they had adjusted the portions to showcase the artichoke, rather than smother it with boatloads of boring arugula.

Caprese $21

A classic combination of sweet, blood red kumato tomatoes next to morsels of creamy mozzarella di bufala. (Kumatos are known for their higher fructose content and sweet flavor.) Accented with fresh green pesto.

Salmone $39

A big wild salmon steak on a bed of mild organic Swiss chard served with a caper lemon sauce. The salmon itself had been nicely cooked (we ordered it to be prepared per the chef’s recommendation), slightly browned on the outside but still pink and tender on the inside. Underneath, a heap of steamed spinach, which was a bit too soggy, flecked with chili flakes. The chard was pleasantly prepared but felt a bit disjointed in the context of the dish. Plated with tart capers and bright lemon zest.

Baccala $38

A vast fillet of creamy cod, crusted in thin slices of crispy potato. Served in a bowl of creamy sauce with diced black olives, crunchy pine nuts and sharp capers. Unfortunately, this dish looked better than it tasted. The flavors were jumbled together and, to my mind, the cod was just too huge.

Arrabbiata $21

This classic pasta dish was excellently executed. Thick threads of al dente pasta covered in a spicy arrabiatta sauce. Authentic and enjoyable.

Key lime cheesecake  $12

Although this dessert was very sweet and a bit too dense, we still enjoyed it. The cake was composed of two layers: a more gooey, creamy top and a denser, floury base. The top was flecked with lime rind and infused with tart, bright juice. Plated with a small scoop of coconut gelato and a handful of crushed almonds.

Gianduia $12

Our server insisted we order this option, explaining that it was the restaurant’s most popular dessert. We can certainly see why. Thin layers of moist hazelnut sponge on crisp hazelnut wafer, interspersed with layers of light, vibrant hazelnut cream and, finally, topped with hazelnut-infused gianduia chocolate. Very decadent and incredibly tasty.

When we ate at Casa Lever, we had the pleasure of sitting in their outdoor courtyard. While a bit noisy (they were playing loud euro-trashy music), we enjoyed the opportunity to dine en plein air. The food was so-so: Hackneyed modern Italian fare, which failed to delight or impress. Instead, we were commenting on the simple starters, the over-salted (and over-sized) fish and the excessively sweet desserts.

The interior (decorated like a 1960s space pod and peppered with Warhols) and the outdoor terrace are fun, but an excellent restaurant these do not make. Stop by for lunch if you’re working in the area but not worth a long journey uptown.

Casa Lever

390 Park Ave.

212-888-2700

#94 Frankies Spuntino 457

Crostini $8

Of the six options available, we selected two. On the left, a big scoop of gooey cremini mushroom infused with intense truffle oil and garnished with a big helping of grated parmesan. Next to it was a wonderfully moist, spicy eggplant caponata. Both were served on thick slices of crunchy, toasted bread.

Marinated olives $5, Charred cauliflower $6

We ordered a big bowl of salty mixed olives and then small portion of grilled cauliflower. The delicate florets had been covered in earthy olive oil and then cooked till they were slightly crunchy around the edges and lightly charred.

Sweet potato and sage ravioli $16

We weren’t sure what to make of this dish. The tender ravioli were filled with slightly sugary sweet potato but balanced with savory, peppery sage. However, these flavorful parcels were served in a watery parmesan broth, which made everything kind of soggy and, overall, seemed to confuse the dish. Instead, we would have preferred the pasta alone, without the distraction of a bland broth.

Braised octopus with dandelion greens $14

This big bowl of salad was rather disappointing. From the name, we expected a big serving of tender octopus with a small portion of dandelion greens. Instead, it was the other way around. A vast portion of bitter greens with a couple small morsels of octopus mixed in. Most of the time, I was rummaging through the leaves, hunting for small bites of the succulent seafood. All of this was tossed in a Castelvetrano vinaigrette, which is named after the Sicilian town where the owners own a brand of spicy olive oil. Unfortunately, the salad was overdressed, which further overpowered the delicate flavors of the soft and sweet octopus. Disappointing.

Vanilla bean crème brûlée $8

A pleasant but not particularly imaginative dish. Underneath the crackly shell was luxurious, vanilla-infused cream. Though, we found the top layer of sugar too thick and the cream too stodgy. 

Tiramisu $9

Without a doubt, one of my favorite desserts, Tiramisu is a hard dish to get right. The name means “pick me up,” which is considered to metaphorically mean, “make me happy.” It is normally made of ladyfingers dipped in coffee, layered with a light mixture of egg yolks, mascarpone cheese, liquor and cocoa.

At Frankies, we found the tiramisu was a bit too heavy and creamy. Coffee notes came through but weren’t quite strong enough bring the punch one hopes for. Plus, we missed the potent hits of coffee liqueur. This version wasn’t bad but we’ve certainly had better.

Overall, the food as Frankies is good but neither exciting nor excellent. We enjoyed the initial crostini very much, so much so that we ordered another cremini mushroom later in our meal. Otherwise, Chefs Frank Castronovo and Frank Falcinelli (thus, the name) present pleasant, generously portioned dishes that, unfortunately, fail to deliver on their promises. The octopus salad was disappointingly lacking in octopus, the attractive sounding pasta was ruined by its own attempt at complexity and the desserts were, quite frankly, rather uninspired.

While our server was very friendly, we have to call out the incredibly slow kitchen. It took us about 45 minutes to receive our two crostini, which surely must have been pre-prepared. After that, there was more waiting, as we sat hungrily eyeing up other diners, wondering whether our food would be next. It’s worth noting that the restaurant does have a very small kitchen but, to my mind, that’s no excuse.

On the other hand, Frankies is redeemed by its beautiful garden. Walk through the cozy restaurant and you’ll come out onto a vast gravel garden. There are wooden tables with candles, all underneath a big awning with strings of lightbulbs. It’s a really wonderful place to sit outside and enjoy a meal, especially on a balmy summer night. As long as you don’t expect incredible things from the kitchen, you’ll have a great evening. Plus, you get the pleasure of Brooklyn prices! 

Frankies Spuntino 457

457 Court St.

718-403-0033

#40 Eataly

Brasato di miale panino $15

Between two pieces of thick, fluffy, warm Italian bread was a generous helping of tasty braised pork. Marinated in apricot, the tender meat had a delicious sweet kick. Crunchy shreds of tart, pickled red cabbage. Served with a big handful of arugula and a bowl of halved heirloom potatoes.

Pollo con pesto di olive verdi $17

Surprisingly simple, tender, buttery chicken with a small spoonful of fresh pesto. The buttery and tender meat was served with the crisp, salty skin. Plated with more arugula. Perhaps a bit too basic for my tastes but very healthy.

On top of Mario Batali’s pantheon of Italian food is a large, airy (if covered) terrace. Known as the Birreria, this section of sprawling Eataly is a nice place to escape and enjoy a little bit of outdoor space. There are many beers on tap, all of which looked tasty. The food seemed good enough: nothing particularly special but perhaps that’s because we didn’t order anything extremely adventurous. There are also a plethora of smaller, more specialized eateries on the ground floor.

Eataly

200 5th Ave. 

212-229-2560

#78 Sfoglia

Clams $18

A big bowl overflowing with slightly spicy, savory clams. Marinated in a delicious, salty broth made from beer, green garlic and piquant chili. Peppered with juicy chunks of lamb sausage that brought a rich, meaty flavor and an extra, hearty element. Garnished with a sprinkling of diced tomato.

Roasted escarole $8

An unusual version of a summertime salad, the chef had prepared a dish of wilted escarole with green olives and walnut gremolata. The lettuce had lost much of its unique taste and seemed very similar to basic (watery) bok choy. The gremolata was pretty bland; a crunchy, crumbly mess of walnuts without the zesty lemon or bright parsley flavors. We couldn’t find the olives, either.

Ricotta gnocchi $27

Most likely one of the best pastas I’ve had so far. A generous portion of delicious ricotta gnocchi. Perfectly creamy yet light and fluffy, these little springy balls of dough were a delight. Served on a bed of freshly prepared spinach sauce, which was almost as thick as an olive oil-infused spinach purée. Muddled with clusters of sweet almonds that had been roasted with curry powder. These nuts, both sugary and spicy were an intelligent addition to an already impressive dish. Topped with a couple spinach leaves to finish.

Blackberry tart $16

One of the day’s specials, we ordered this dessert at the beginning of our meal. The tart, when it arrived, had clearly been freshly prepared. Two quenelles of mild oatmeal gelato (similar to vanilla but with an oat kick) sat slowly melting on a huge, steaming tart. The carefully handcrafted crust was thick and crumbly, lightly browned and just sweet enough. Inside were big blackberries in a sweet sauce. While tasty, we found the dish to be a bit too eggy and would have liked a few more blackberries. We also didn’t love the gelato. Perhaps crème fraiche, either by itself or as an ice cream, would have been better.

Tucked up on the northern edge of the Upper East Side, Sfoglia is an underappreciated Italian gem. The small space (there are only about 10 tables) is relaxing and rustic: communal tables with burning candles, simple silverware and classic dishcloth napkins. The food can be hit or miss. However, where the restaurant shines is in its pasta. On all the previous occasions, my dining companion and I have been enthralled by the bountiful portions of rich, flavorful pasta. All these dishes are delicious, from the most basic options to the seasonal specialties. The hearty Italian farm bread is also awesome. Oh, and don’t forget - the portions are huge, so don’t order too much!

Sfoglia

1402 Lexington Ave. 

212-831-1402

#76 Lupa

Pork $24 

A big hunk of pork chop, cleanly plated on a bed of intense mushrooms and accented with tart berries. The tender meat was grilled, bringing out soft notes of juniper and chili. Underneath was a serving of marinated mushrooms (a mixture of truffle-y hen of the wood and creamy king trumpet). While simple and savory, the combination of flavors, overwhelmed by the punchy mushrooms, seemed illogical. This unimaginative dish struck me as better for a rustic Italian kitchen than a New York restaurant.

Ricotta gnocchi with sausage and fennel $16

A small dish of moist morsels of chunky ricotta gnocchi. Light and springy yet full of flavor, these delicate balls of home made pasta were thoroughly satisfying. Covered with a salty and sweet rich tomato sauce. However, despite the menu’s promise, the dish had neither sausage nor fennel, both in form and flavor (at least, as far as we could discern). While disappointed by the absence of these ingredients, we found the pasta to be quite tasty.

Lupa tartufo $8

On a wet Friday evening, we were looking for a hit of something suitably sweet and this chocolate delight, a symphony of rich chocolate and luxurious hazelnut, didn’t disappoint. With childlike delight, we cracked open the crunchy milk chocolate shell, revealing fresh hazelnut ice cream. Served on a bed of thick, sweet dark chocolate sauce and garnished with crumbled hazelnut. With pleasure, we ate it all up before the ice cream had melted.

Olive oil torta and rhubarb $9

Two slices of moist, mildly flavored olive oil cake on a bed of rhubarb and cream. The dense and somewhat doughy cake was missing the smooth olive oil finish. While the thick crème fraiche added savory balance, the tiny chunks of blanched rhubarb didn’t have the tart, flavorful punch we’d hoped for.

Of all the properties in the Mario Batali empire, Lupa is the most toned down. Its rustic tone is noticeable in both the restaurant’s aesthetic and its cuisine. There are long communal tables, tiled floors and a big wooden bar for those who want to eat alone. The food is equally simple; classic items plated on clean white dishes with little embellishment. However, almost 13 years after opening (it debuted in 1999), it seems to be flagging. Everything seemed unimaginative and unremarkable. We missed interesting ingredients and dynamic flavor combinations. Indeed, in the case of the gnocchi, we were surprised that some components appeared to be omitted entirely.

It’s clear that the specialty here is pasta: an assortment of home made options in tasty sauces. In the excessively chic area of SoHo and Greenwich Village, Lupa’s a good option to satisfy your craving for simple food. However, I would say there are better ways to experience rustic Italian fare.

Lupa

170 Thompson St.

212-982-5089

#92 Otto Enoteca Pizzeria

Cauliflower “alla Siciliana” $5

Delicious portion of tasty cauliflower muddled with pitted black olives, tart capers and lemon juice. Cauliflower, like broccoli, is a vegetable that I’m starting to appreciate more. This dish had deep earthy flavors accented with citrus hints and flakes of spicy chili. Small and tasty antipasti. 

Home made agnolotti $15

A simple dish of tasty home made mini ravioli. Small packets of pasta, filled with sweet and rich Coach Farm goat ricotta, seasoned with chive. Covered with a simple sauce of lemon, butter, cracked black pepper, parmigiano reggiano, luscious extra virgin olive oil and delicate, seasonal fennel pollen.

Shrimp, ceci and chilies $8

This antipasti was an unusual mix of ceci (chickpeas), grilled shrimp and hot chilies. The shrimps were well prepared and the chickpeas just the right consistency. However, the chilies were so strong that they overpowered the only dish. All we could taste was the hot spice and not much else.

Lemon ricotta cake $9

Served in a traditional steel dish, this classic dessert was simple and tasty. A moist, luxurious slice of spongy lemon ricotta cake, served with a scoop of intense vanilla gelato and garnished with a dollop of whipped cream and a slice of lemon. The kind and friendly staff were also particularly accommodating, substituting delicious crème fraiche ice cream for the alcoholic cherries. We could have happily eaten four of these comforting lemon concoctions.

Home made gelato $8

The incredible home made gelato is probably one of the best in town. It is rich, intense and supremely creamy, allowing the flavors come through perfectly. We opted for yummy banana and refreshing peppermint chocolate chip. Also served in the traditional steel dish and garnished with a crunchy wafer.

Inside this buzzy space is the ideal environment to explore interesting antipasti, enjoy traditional Italian pizzas with a twist and savor clever and delicious homemade pastas. While this is a Mario Batali establishment, Chef Dan Drohan has been steering the restaurant since 2005 in his role as executive chef. Pasty chef Meredith Kutzman has put together an impressive assortment of desserts and her hand-made, seasonal gelato is impeccable. Of course, it’s not the ultimate gastronomic experience but, if you want reliable and reasonable Italian fare, this is the place to be.

Oh, and the best thing? Almost the entire menu is available for takeout.

Otto Enoteca Pizzeria 

1 Fifth Ave.

212-995-9559

#44 Locanda Verde

Sheep’s milk ricotta with truffle honey and burnt orange toast $15

A dense dollop of luxurious, intense ricotta cream, peppered with sprigs of rosemary, fresh black pepper and muddled with decadent black truffle. Crowned with gooey honey, which brought sweet balance to the savory truffle. Served with four thick slices of grilled orange-infused farmers bread, which we contentedly slathered with the sweet ricotta. A great way to begin a meal.

Zucchini frittata with roasted tomato, goat cheese and basil $17

A prettily presented version of the traditional frittata. The chef combined small chunks of crunchy zucchini with special, seasonal flowers, arranged in a circular pattern. Mixed in were bits of fresh basil and tasty mouthfuls of goat cheese. Garnished with slivers of Mediterranean-style rich, roasted tomatoes and, in the center, a small scoop of goat cheese with dill. We found this dish slightly lacking in flavor: perhaps it could have benefited from a bit more simple seasoning (salt, pepper) during preparation.

Soft scrambled farm egg crostino with leeks and mushrooms $19

This dish was rather disappointing. A small serving of light, fluffy yet under-seasoned scrambled eggs placed on a piece of hard toast. The over-dressed salad (a blend of arugula and frisee lettuce) was mixed with a couple thin pieces of hen of the wood mushroom. Unfortunately, we felt this was bland, over-priced and poorly plated. Better off to avoid this one.

Uovo modenese with cotechino hash, spinach and tomato hollandaise $20

A decadent, rich Italian alternative to the traditional eggs florentine. Two perfectly poached eggs placed on a bed of cotechino hash. Cotechino is an Italian charcuterie product, occasionally likened to salami, that is used in cooked dishes. The crumbly texture and fatty flavors add extra depth to a cooked dish. Mixed in with the hearty meat was a generous helping of spinach. Served with more of Locanda Verde’s delicious farmers bread (which I used to mop up all the yolk and sauce). Garnished with a sprinkling of diced chives.

We initially approached Locanda Verde with hesitancy, as many of Andrew Carmellini’s restaurants (The Dutch included) have a reputation for style over substance. Since it was opened in 2009, it’s garnered significant amount of critical commentary – both positive and negative – so we were unsure what to expect.

Overall, we found the food mixed. The ricotta was simple and tasty, though not particularly complicated, while the frittata and scrambled egg were pretty unremarkable and indistinct. By contrast, the uovo modenese was a heady mixture of deep, fatty flavors which was ideal brunch fare for a Saturday morning. Based on this, it seems that you have to order carefully at Locanda Verde. Expect some interesting, enjoyable and memorable items but don’t expect to be whipped on an amazing culinary journey. Otherwise, you’ll either love or hate the buzzy space but you’ll certainly appreciate the kind, knowledgeable and extremely well trained staff.

Locanda Verde

377 Greenwich St.

212-925-3793

#49 Osteria Morini

Lumache verde $19

A tidy portion of home made spinach pasta in a rich ragu sauce. Tender pieces of lamb mixed with green peas, halved black olives and a lemon thyme sauce. Accented with piquant chili flakes and hot black peppercorns. Garnished with a generous amount of shaved ricotta salata, which is a variation of ricotta that has been pressed, salted and dried. The salata has a salty, nutty and milky flavor, adding an extra and enjoyable element to this hearty and interesting pasta. Well portioned, pleasantly seasoned and very enjoyable.

Torrone semifreddo $11

This unusual dish was an icy chunk of cream that I left almost untouched. The hard slice of white chocolate-almond semifreddo was so bland and crystalized that it seemed as if it had been frozen multiple times. While it was dotted with nuts, there was little evidence of white chocolate. The apricot bites were sharp and sweet but, when mixed with the tart meyer lemon granita and the juicy chunks of grapefruit, they entirely overwhelmed the creamy semifreddo. The sparse sprigs of candied fennel (which tasted more of sugar than fennel) seemed to be unnecessary additions that further confused a cacophony of flavors. Unfortunately, this was my least favorite dessert I’ve had so far.

Overall, the rustic Italian fare at Chef Michael White’s Osteria Morini is quite delicious. It’s hearty, authentic, Italian cooking that brings decadent amounts of butter and cream to traditional dishes. On all the other occasions I’ve eaten here, I’ve been very pleased with my meal. This time, the pasta hit the spot but the dessert was really unimpressive. It seemed to be a lazy mixture of tired flavors and certainly didn’t do justice to the true quality of the restaurant. With this in mind, I’ll certainly be coming back, but I’ll probably skip the dessert when I do.

Osteria Morini

218 Lafayette St.

212-965-8777