#83 Telepan

Autumn caprese salad $16

Underneath four dainty rings of sliced pear was a thick slab of house-made mozzarella and a bed of spicy arugula. The pears, sweet, tart and crisp, paired well with the smooth, creamy cheese. The small mouthfuls of fried artichokes were suitably salty, charred just a little for a great charcoal flavor. Drizzled with a light balsamic vinaigrette. Disappointingly, though, we felt the dish was undone by the mozzarella, which was a bit too rubbery, like halloumi.

Squash soup $12

Created with neither butter nor cream, this soup was a perfect, warming option for darkening autumn days. Smooth and flavorful, the delicious soup was filled with tiny gnocchetti, bright chestnuts and crunchy whole-wheat croutons.

Kabocha squash tortelloni $23

We didn’t regret ordering this second squash dish during our meal. One of the better pastas available, the thick tortelloni were filled with luxurious kabocha squash (a Japanese variety of winter squash, known for its strong, yet sweet flavor and moist, fluffy texture). The generous parcels were covered with flavorful, truffle-y wild mushrooms, grated pecorino cheese and delicious aged balsamic.

Duck and foie gras ravioli $26

Our second pasta dish was a decadent selection of duck and foie gras ravioli. While the pasta was a little thicker and sturdier than we would have liked, the packets were filled with moist, gamey meat that melted in the mouth. They were served on a bed of parsley root puree and garnished with crunchy roasted parsnip and a sweet dried-fruit sauce.

Pumpkin cheesecake sundae $13

For dessert, we decided to share this appealing-sounding sundae. When it arrived, the tall glass was filled with scoops of seasonal pumpkin and sweet cheesecake gelato. This was covered with a comforting cinnamon-caramel sauce and liberally sprinkled with glazed pecans. The bad news was that the pumpkin ice cream had clearly been thawed and frozen multiple times, developing the crunchy ice crystals that transform something good into something not so nice.

Having eaten at Telepan for brunch (excellent), I was excited to return for dinner. Chef Bill Telepan’s restaurant is famous for its superb farm-to-table cuisine and, for the most part, we weren’t disappointed. The meal got off to a bumpy start with some dodgy gruyere toasts as an amuse but, as we submitted our orders and the fresh bread arrived, things started looking up. The squash soup  was a great autumn offering, while the caprese salad had a way to go (the mozzarella really let it down). After that, we enjoyed our pasta – noting that it wasn’t the finest, Italian-quality fare but good, hearty, American food with an elegant, farm-to-table twist. The dessert was so-so but, while Telepan is safely ensconced on the Sandy-safe Upper West Side, perhaps we should allow them some weather-related benefit of the doubt.

As far as the dining room, it’s not super casual (there are white linen table clothes and uniformed waiters) but you could stroll in with jeans and a button down shirt without a problem. The staff are friendly, the space warm and cozy and the prices pretty reasonable. All in all, an excellent choice if you’re anywhere on the Upper West Side and are looking for a thoroughly tasty, high-quality meal.

Telepan

72 W. 69th St.

212-580-4300

#54 Adour Alain Ducasse

“Porc en beaux morceaux” $38

Experimentation isn’t the name of the game at Alain Ducasse’s recently closed restaurant at the St. Regis Hotel. The pork was a concise selection of choice meats: two pieces of dry, overcooked, pan-roasted loin and a thick chunk of chewy (not gooey, mind you) pork belly. Next to this was a small slice of rich boudin noir and a lightly charred winter pear. For added flourish, my server slowly poured a delicate sauce over the dish. This was served with a small pot of pureed butternut squash with parmesan and shredded prosciutto.

Mont-blanc $12

This was probably one of the most unusual and impressive desserts I’ve enjoyed so far. Imagine a chestnut and pear ice cream sandwich but even more delicious than it sounds. The “vermicelli” was actually chilled chestnut paste, similar to ice cream but totally decadent and pure. The filling was light, sweet Chantilly cream and delicate segments of sweet poached pear. All placed on a crunchy vanilla meringue base. Exquisite. 

Adour closed in mid-November, leaving the formal dining space at the St. Regis hotel temporarily empty. Does this leave a hole in the fabric of New York’s dining tapestry? I’m not so sure. The food at Adour was clearly excellent when the restaurant first opened but, when I went, it seemed to be in a slow decline. Interesting legacy items on the menu (the Mont-Blanc was particularly impressive) but seemingly slopping implementation. The bread, for instance, was hard and dry – always a bad sign.

This being said, I’m looking forward to trying chef Alain Ducasse’s next venture. I’m sure it will be impressive.

Adour Alain Ducasse at the St. Regis

2 E. 55th St. 

212-710-2277

#86 Prime Meats

Thrice cooked bacon with lima beans, pickled peppers and fried duck egg $19

Perfect for a chilly winter evening, this special stew was chock full of hearty lima beans in a light, creamy broth. It was served with a perfectly cooked, insanely rich fried duck egg and, to the right, a decadently thick slice of thrice cooked bacon.

Colorado lamb stew $25

This was another delicious stew. The spicy broth was a full of hearty white beans. It had huge hunks of tender lamb shoulder, fatty cured lamb belly and housemade merguez sausage. The most decadent component, though, was the helping of gorgeous marrow breadcrumbs.

Beef sauerbraten and braised red cabbage $22

Prime Meats has a whole section of its menu devoted to Germanic Alpine fare, so we selected one of their classics. This was a warming winter option but not exactly our favorite item. The big pieces of beef had been slow braised in red wine, vinegar and juniper berries, making them tender but also tart. The crunchy braised red cabbage was just too sour and overpowered the dish.

Chocolate cake $8

The chocolate cake was very disappointing. The small sponge was rather flavorless and dry. The ice cream and the sauce weren’t particularly impressive, either.

Located in Brooklyn’s Carroll Gardens (one of my favorite parts of New York), Prime Meats is a cozy establishment that caters for amicable locals and eager chowhounds from the island. The space is warm and welcoming: wooden floors, dim lights, a long bar with local liquors. The tables are small (some might say cramped) but it gives you a good excuse to get comfortable with your dining companions.

The food isn’t fine but some of it is pretty darn delicious. Hearty German-American fare, with locally sourced ingredients—meat heavy, of course—and seasonal vegetables. The portion sizes are generous, too. The German alpine items and the dessert weren’t hugely impressive. Compared to establishments like Wallsé in the West Village and Seäsonal in Midtown, Prime Meats can’t compete on a culinary level.

While Prime Meats might not be a destination restaurant. consider it an excuse to go and enjoy the pleasant airs of Carroll Gardens.

Prime Meats

465 Court St.

Carroll Gardens

718-254-0327

#18 Dovetail

Hen of the woods mushrooms with delicata squash, barley and quail eggs $20

This was a light and tasty barley risotto full of truffle-y hen of the woods and delicata squash. The thick, meaty mushrooms were almost like steak, nicely balanced by the slightly sweet squash. Served with rich quail eggs and garnished with a liberal sprinkling of bright parsley.

Pistachio-crusted duck with brussels sprouts, endive and parsley root $38

The tasty, tender duck at Dovetail doesn’t disappoint. The duck is cooked sous-vide and then lightly pan seared to keep the meat tender while sealing in the flavor. It had then been prepared with a delicious, citrus-y rub of meyer lemon and pistachio crumbs. The dish was also served with a huge cannelloni filled with duck confit and foie gras. Totally decadent. For vegetables, the chef had used seasonal brussels sprouts, slightly caramelized parsley root and crunchy endive.

Dark chocolate soufflé $16

On the recommendation of a family member, I ordered the specialty dark chocolate soufflé for dessert. After presenting me with the dish, my server deftly poured a warm caramel sauce into the ramekin. I promptly dug in, enjoying the light, fluffy and totally chocolate-y soufflé.

Dovetail is certainly one of the finest eateries on the Upper West Side. The space is subdued and soothing, with white linens, muted tones and the convivial buzz of glasses clinking and cutlery on china.

The food is excellent. Chef John Fraser takes his pick of fresh, seasonal ingredients and turns them, with aplomb, into delicious, thoughtful dishes for picky diners. He doesn’t have a point to prove, just a desire to create thoroughly enjoyable cuisine.

As a note, Dovetail is on the more formal side (consider it the Upper West Side’s equivalent to Café Boulud on the Upper East).

Dovetail

103 W. 77th St.

212-362-3800

#100 RedFarm

Shrimp and snow pea leaf dumplings $19

These were the best part of our meal. Inside a light, delicate skin was smooth, buttery shrimp with crisp snow pea leaf. The dainty parcels melted in our mouths, yielding wonderfully clean and fresh flavors.

Smoked cucumbers $6

Crunchy marinated cucumbers muddled with spicy red chili and white and black sesame seeds. These guys had a nice, smoky taste alongside a sharp hit of vinegar. An interesting hybrid of American pickles with Asian spice and seeds.

Barbequed “Black Foot” Berkshire pork belly $15.50

First off, I’m not quite sure why they didn’t round up/down with the whole 50 cents thing but whatever. The chef grilled the pork enough to get a nice smoky char but leave it tender on the inside. He then cut it into thick, juicy slices and garnished it with red pepper and a sweet sauce. One thing I particularly enjoyed was the spicy arugula on either side of the plate. It was the perfect antidote to the sweet, smoky pork (almost like ginger is to sushi).

Braised oxtail, Japanese pumpkin and okra $24

This was one of the daily specials, and we were glad we ordered it. Served in a heavy ceramic urn, the meat (on the bone, of course) was beautifully tender. There were okra, leeks, onions and yummy chunks of sweet and slightly crunchy Japanese pumpkin, which is similar to but sweeter than butternut squash. All marinated in a hearty sauce and served with flatbread.

Sautéed black cod with black bean and Thai basil $32

Black cod is a classic option so we decided to check this version out. Buried under crunchy snow peas, onion and pepper was a big piece of crumbly black cod.  This was all covered in a mild black bean sauce. Unfortunately, this dish just wasn’t that interesting. It simply tasted like a higher quality version of whatever’s on offer at China Fun. Perhaps that’s what the chef was going for, but we weren’t wowed.

Diced lamb with Chinese broccoli and white asparagus $28

By the time this dish came out, our table was absolutely swamped! Although it looked appetizing, the lamb was pretty disappointing. The meat was tough and the sauce overpowering. Of course, there were the requisite vegetables (peppers, broccoli, etc.), along with a generous helping of garlic. However, it seemed strange to add in white asparagus, as the vegetable has such a delicate and easily overpowered flavor. If anything, I would have gone for heartier green asparagus.

RedFarm is a curious stop on the New York restaurant circuit. It’s certainly garnered a lot of praise and it’s always full of smiling, chatty diners. On our visit, the place was buzzing but the hostess managed to squeeze us in. (As a funny aside, you have to walk through an electric sliding door to enter the restaurant. It feels very Japanese.) The space is small but bright, with a long communal table surrounded by smaller booths. The staff are super friendly, eagerly offering suggestions as to their favorite dishes. It’s a warm welcome to the place and very much appreciated.

As far as the food, we had mixed feelings. The cucumbers weren’t the best but we were dazzled by the delicious, delicate dumplings. Our server mentioned that these were the restaurant’s most impressive items, and he wasn’t wrong. They were wonderfully light but full with interesting flavors. As the meal continued, however, we were less impressed by the cuisine. There were a couple misses for the main dishes. Maybe they just didn’t live up to the hype.

RedFarm

529 Hudson St.

212-792-9700

#93 Empellón

Swordfish cerviche with capers and salsa Veracruz $14

Big, meaty chunks of tender swordfish marinated in mild citrus juice, muddled with a generous helping of sharp capers, thinly sliced green chilies and fresh cilantro. This dish was totally undermined, however, by the strange the sauce. The salsa Veracruz, weirdly, tasted just like a classic pomodoro. It was a tomato base, light, mild, slightly sweet and accented with olive notes – totally out of place for a supposedly sharp cerviche.

Fried green tomato tacos (two) $14

These two tacos were the most unimpressive item during dinner. The hefty slices of tomato were so deeply fried that it eviscerated any soft, sweet tastes of the fruit. Instead, it became a thick shell of salty, bready crust with a bland, gooey inside. This was served with fiery pasilla oxaqueña chili and a somewhat tasteless macadamia nut hummus. As a garnish, the tacos were haphazardly garnished with a handful of cilantro.

Hen of the woods tacos (three) $24

Hen of the woods are my favorite kind of mushrooms. They are intense, earthy with a wonderful, slightly chewy texture and a deep flavor. In this case, the mushrooms were perfectly cooked but overwhelmed by all the other stuff on the plate. A thick, sticky, cloying tomatillo-chipotle salsa, globs of bland queso blanco and crunchy strands of zucchini. To both our minds, this dish would have been perfect with just the mushrooms alone. They’re fantastically fragrant and can easily speak for themselves.

We walked away from our meal at Empellón thoroughly unimpressed. The space itself feel cheap and tired. Loud, disco beats, dreary furniture, with tables so close together that you’re practically eating dinner with your neighbor. (This seems just greedy on the restaurant’s behalf – surely diners deserve a bit of space!?) The staff are somewhat brusque and aren’t best equipped to answer all your questions.

The food is really quite unremarkable. All our dishes, including the chips and salsa (that we had to pay for!), were either bland or bad. The chef seems eager to jumble flavors together, hoping that something good will come of it. Swordfish with chili, tomato, citrus, cilantro? Mushrooms with zucchini, cheese, sauce? Why not let the ingredients speak for themselves? I’m sure they’ll do an elegant job.

Skip Empellón. You’re not missing much. 

Empellón

230 W. 4th St.

212-367-0999

#77 Sorella

Roasted beet & shaved fennel salad $14

Bright, crunchy haricots verts combined with thin shavings of crisp fennel and small, delicate roasted beets. Muddled with chunks of pistachio and slices of spicy serrano pepper. Dressed in a light and creamy tonnato sauce.

Little gem and sweet corn salad $15

A friend and I described this dish as a tasty hybrid of a classic cesar salad and good ol’ Southern corn. Big, crunchy leaves of little gem lettuce, mixed with smooth ricotta salata, fluffy cornbread and covered with shavings of Grana cheese. Served with an unusual and interesting crème fraîche –chili dressing. Personally, I found this dish overwhelmingly heavy but both my dining companion and my friend enjoyed it.

Ricotta gnocchi $23

This was one of the daily specials when we dined at Sorella. The gnocchi were absolutely perfect; small doughy balls, oozing with rich, creamy ricotta. Each perfectly sized piece bursting with gooey cheese and smooth flavors. Served with slivers of tender braised pork, rich slow roasted tomatoes and diced Caselvetrano olives (incidentally, the folks at Frankies 457 are also fans of these olives). Garnished with a generous serving of Grana Padano cheese.

Risotto $18

A pleasant portion of hearty homemade risotto. The pasta was al dente (perhaps a bit too much so for my dining companion), mixed with intense porcini mushrooms and salty guanciale, which is an unsmoked Italian bacon, often prepared with pig’s cheeks of jowl. Smothered with delicious pecorino oro antico cheese.

Gelati $8

To finish, we opted for three scoops of Sorella’s incredible-sounding gelati.

- Chunky Sorella: Salted caramel gelato flecked with chocolate-covered pretzels and punctuated with an intense fudge swirl. Definitely our favorite of the three.

- Bananimal: Banana gelato muddled with caramel-covered animal crackers and a sweet caramel swirl.

- Buttercrunch: Brown sugar gelato with buttercrunch toffee and a smooth milk chocolate ganache. This was our least favorite option, as we found the buttercrunch ice cream a bit bland.

While I’d been meaning to eat at Sorella for sometime, I pushed it to the top of my list on a recommendation from a friend. To be totally honest, I’m very glad I did. Push past the discreet looking door on Allen street to first enter into a bar space with high tables and then into a larger dining room. The space is simple but warm, with thick wooden tables, comfortable felt-covered chairs and small tea lights dotted around the restaurant. The servers, who are chatty and knowledgeable, work with a refreshing enthusiasm, proudly showing their own appreciation of the food available.

As for the cuisine, chef Emma Hearst and her partner Sarah Krathen have drawn on their experiences in Piedmont, Italy to create an elegant and authentic menu full of tasty, cheesy treats. We really did enjoy all of our savory dishes, marveling at the jovial flavors. Where Sorella really disappoints, however, is in the dessert department. All of the dishes available sound delicious but sadly overpromise. While they aren’t pictured, we had a ‘bicerin’ (a pot de crème of sorts, with espresso fudge and chocolate pudding garnished with soft whipped cream) and a tartelette (a small tart with almond cream, marinated cherries and a scoop of cherry-cream gelato). Both of these were pretty bland.

With that in mind, definitely head to Sorella to check out the awesome savory dishes but be sure to skip dessert. You won’t regret it!

Sorella

95 Allen St.

212-274-9595

#87 Sushi Azabu

Fluke

Mild, creamy fluke with a light soy glaze.

Japanese red snapper

Interestingly, this fish is considered a symbol of good luck in Japan and is thus the most prestigious and delicious of all snappers.

Kanpachi

Otherwise known as amberjack, this fish derives its name from a figure of eight pattern it develops during infancy. At an early stage this symbol appears on the middle of its head, hence the name kanpachi or “center eight.”

Japanese bonito

Buttery fish garnished with a small spoonful of spicy ginger.

King salmon

This was my favorite piece of salmon. Slightly deeper, richer flavors than the other varietals.

Scottish salmon

While more buttery, I also found this a little more oily that the king salmon.

Seared Scottish salmon

An interesting piece of nigiri. The fish had been lightly seared with a blowtorch, making it sweeter but also a tad fishier.

Shrimp

Simple, fresh and tasty.

Scallop

This juicy piece of shellfish was glazed with lemon juice, salt and a perfect hint of citrus-y yuzu zest.

Squash roll $5

My server recommended this item. Tart, crunchy home-pickled squash wrapped in rice and nori. Clean, classic and uncomplicated.

In Tribeca, tucked underneath the already unassuming Greenwich Grill, is this little jewel box of a sushi restaurant. The small, subterranean space has a long sushi bar (staffed by talented chefs) and a handful of modest tables. The deft staff courtesly accommodate your needs and desires, gently explaining their favorite options on the menu and what you might best enjoy.

As for the food, the sushi is impressive. (One curiosity was that I was served a bowl of miso soup at the end of the meal. I learnt that this is quite common but seems to vary depending on the type of soup - mine had a prawn.) The fish is obviously extremely high quality. I was told that 70% of the fish is flown in from Japan daily, the remaining 30% is sourced from various places, including North America. The options are simple and very toned down, which can be refreshing (this definitely isn’t Sushi of Gari). If you’re in Tribeca, definitely stop by for some excellent sushi. And, yes, you can get all these pieces of sushi – save the squash rolls – for $35. 

Sushi Azabu

428 Greenwich St.

212-274-0428

#60 Scarpetta

Creamy polenta $18 (not pictured)

This dish was rather elegantly prepared. Our server presented us with a small bowl of buttery polenta and slowly covered it with a rich, mushroom sauce. The polenta itself was velvety smooth, warm mouthfuls of truffle-infused goodness. The sauce was a flavorful fricasse of intense chanterelle mushrooms. A rich, hearty and delicious way to begin our meal.

Tajarin $25

This appealing dish definitely delivered on its promises. Long strands of hearty homemade pasta in a creamy sauce. Tender morsels of veal sweetbreads, shreds of crunchy zucchini and thin slivers of spicy jalapeño pepper.

Black tagliolini $28

A hefty serving of homemade tagliolini. Served in a flavorful seafood ragout made of mussels, calamari, shrimp and sea urchin. Muddled with crunchy basil breadcrumbs

Warm rhubarb tart $12

Rhubarb is always a special ingredient for me. I remember learning about the plant (and its poison) at primary school. Ever since I found that out, it’s held a special allure. Given that I was looking for something light and unusual, I ordered the rhubarb tart.

The base was a crumbly, buttery biscuit. Slightly crisp but moist. The spears of tart rhubarb on top were a bit chewy but pleasant. The candied macadamia nuts, however, just didn’t work. They were cumbersome to eat, falling all over the plate. Plus, they were too sweet. Instead, it might have been interesting to add almond paste into the base, which would have added smooth nutty flavors in a more diner-friendly manner. The basil yoghurt on the side was interesting but was a bit too strong. Instead, I would have suggested a crème fraiche.

Having eaten at Scarpetta once, I was excited to return and confirm/dismiss my prior conclusions. Previously, the pasta was excellent but the main courses underwhelmed. With this in mind, we decided to stick mainly with pasta and order a couple additional dishes. The polenta was delicious and, as before, the pasta was wonderful. Interesting, creative options that were rich and flavorful. The dessert, however, was unimpressive.

The dining room is a little awkward. Lodged in the back of the restaurant, it’s kind of boxy. Seats around the edges with a lot of smaller tables in the middle. In fact, despite the dim lighting and leather banquettes, the whole thing is a little bit corporate. Overall, Scarpetta has great pasta and decent food but it’s not the most interesting place to eat.

Scarpetta

355 W. 14th St.

212-691-0555

#8 Daniel

Lightly fried anchovies with tofu

Inside a thin, crunchy shell were crisp anchovies. Served on a manicured bed of tabouleh with small chunks of mild, smooth tofu and tart pickled cucumber.

Maine lobster salad with poached peaches

Morsels of creamy lobster dressed in a delicate lemon verbena oil vinaigrette. Interspersed with thin slices of sweet poached peaches, which brought bright notes to the dish. Served with green almond and sprigs of slightly sour purslane.

Slow baked, thinly sliced striped bass

What initially looked like vitello tonnato was actually a huge portion of citrus-infused striped bass. The fish was served with a refreshing cucumber daikon salad and peppered with salty lump fish caviar. Dressed with a wonderful wild spearmint and kaffir lime gremolata.

Roasted veal tenderloin with artichoke barigoule

This was actually a trio of veal, consisting of three delicious types of meat on a single plate. Even more elegantly, after serving us, our server server deftly poured a red wine glaze to the dish. Moving from bottom to top:

- A piece of incredibly tender roasted veal tenderloin. Served on a creamy artichoke barigoule (a creamy, olive oil-infused stew).

- Delicious braised veal cheeks with sweet and spicy jalapeño chutney. An interesting and harmonious blend of flavors.

- Incredibly rich, crispy sweet breads on a puree of glazed pattypan squash and French beans.

Milk chocolate dacquoise

This was probably one of the most pleasing desserts I’ve had so far (both in terms of aesthetic and flavor). On the left, intense chocolaty dacquoise sandwiched between two delicate pieces of chocolate. As I learnt, a dacquoise is a delicious mixture of almond, hazelnut and rich cream. It takes its name from the feminine form of “dacquois,” meaning “of Dax,” a tiny town in the south of France. On top, a velvety chocolate parfait, garnished with thin toffee tuile and a flake of gold. Served with a quenelle of perfect salted caramel ice cream.

Kenyan coffee ganache

Another exquisite way to finish off a meal. Layers of dark chocolate crémeux, wonderful chocolate sable and light rice crispy. Polished off with cream and served with coffee ice cream.

After we’d finished our desserts, then our petits fours and then, finally, the light and fluffy madeleines, we were the picture of contentment. All of us, sitting around our comfortable table, smiling and remarking on just how much we’d enjoyed our meal.

In addition to the food, one thing that’s wonderful about Daniel is the service. The talented team are attentive yet discreet and, should you want to know more about your food, they’re informed enough to guide you through each item’s fascinating culinary voyage. Another plus is that Chef Daniel Boulud lives upstairs, which means he’s frequently in the kitchen. During our dinner, we even had the chance to meet him. (What can I say? I was just a tad starstruck).

Given the quality of the food and the service, the 3-course menu at $108 per person is really quite reasonable. As a note, there’s also an intimate bar area that’s more casual and has an à la carte menu. It’s great to stop by and enjoy delicious food without getting aggressive with your credit card.

Daniel

60 E. 65th St.

212-288-0033