#83 Telepan

Autumn caprese salad $16

Underneath four dainty rings of sliced pear was a thick slab of house-made mozzarella and a bed of spicy arugula. The pears, sweet, tart and crisp, paired well with the smooth, creamy cheese. The small mouthfuls of fried artichokes were suitably salty, charred just a little for a great charcoal flavor. Drizzled with a light balsamic vinaigrette. Disappointingly, though, we felt the dish was undone by the mozzarella, which was a bit too rubbery, like halloumi.

Squash soup $12

Created with neither butter nor cream, this soup was a perfect, warming option for darkening autumn days. Smooth and flavorful, the delicious soup was filled with tiny gnocchetti, bright chestnuts and crunchy whole-wheat croutons.

Kabocha squash tortelloni $23

We didn’t regret ordering this second squash dish during our meal. One of the better pastas available, the thick tortelloni were filled with luxurious kabocha squash (a Japanese variety of winter squash, known for its strong, yet sweet flavor and moist, fluffy texture). The generous parcels were covered with flavorful, truffle-y wild mushrooms, grated pecorino cheese and delicious aged balsamic.

Duck and foie gras ravioli $26

Our second pasta dish was a decadent selection of duck and foie gras ravioli. While the pasta was a little thicker and sturdier than we would have liked, the packets were filled with moist, gamey meat that melted in the mouth. They were served on a bed of parsley root puree and garnished with crunchy roasted parsnip and a sweet dried-fruit sauce.

Pumpkin cheesecake sundae $13

For dessert, we decided to share this appealing-sounding sundae. When it arrived, the tall glass was filled with scoops of seasonal pumpkin and sweet cheesecake gelato. This was covered with a comforting cinnamon-caramel sauce and liberally sprinkled with glazed pecans. The bad news was that the pumpkin ice cream had clearly been thawed and frozen multiple times, developing the crunchy ice crystals that transform something good into something not so nice.

Having eaten at Telepan for brunch (excellent), I was excited to return for dinner. Chef Bill Telepan’s restaurant is famous for its superb farm-to-table cuisine and, for the most part, we weren’t disappointed. The meal got off to a bumpy start with some dodgy gruyere toasts as an amuse but, as we submitted our orders and the fresh bread arrived, things started looking up. The squash soup  was a great autumn offering, while the caprese salad had a way to go (the mozzarella really let it down). After that, we enjoyed our pasta – noting that it wasn’t the finest, Italian-quality fare but good, hearty, American food with an elegant, farm-to-table twist. The dessert was so-so but, while Telepan is safely ensconced on the Sandy-safe Upper West Side, perhaps we should allow them some weather-related benefit of the doubt.

As far as the dining room, it’s not super casual (there are white linen table clothes and uniformed waiters) but you could stroll in with jeans and a button down shirt without a problem. The staff are friendly, the space warm and cozy and the prices pretty reasonable. All in all, an excellent choice if you’re anywhere on the Upper West Side and are looking for a thoroughly tasty, high-quality meal.

Telepan

72 W. 69th St.

212-580-4300

#15 Annisa

Artichoke gnocco with lemon confit, lemon thyme and niçoise olives $16

This was actually a starter size portion, so I imagine the main course version would be huge! The gnocco (a single gnocci) was prepared with sunchoke rather than potato. It was light and creamy, slightly crunchy on the outside. The gnocco was plated on a bed of fresh citrus flavors and crowned with two perfect pieces of grilled sunchoke.

Red lentil soup with Middle Eastern spices and red quinoa $15

What at first sight seemed to be simply a cute concept turned out to be a remarkably complex and delicious soup. The red lentil soup, thick and smooth, contained no cream and was garnished with a magical array of spices. Going clockwise, the chef had used sumac, oregano, cinnamon, Korean chili, zaatar, lemon zest, cumin, mint, quinoa, fried shallots and pomegranate in the center. I started by taking a bite of each individually and then mixed it all up to create a bold, flavorful combination.

Pear posset with elderflower and shiso $10

To explain, a posset is very similar to a thick panna cotta. The traditional English dessert is made from rich cream and seasoned with sugar. What made this version special was the layer of delicate poached pear, bright elderflower and aromatic shisho. Unfortunately, it was so sweet that it soon became sickly. Just too much sugary cream for me to enjoy entirely.

I can confidently say that Annisa is one of the most under-appreciated restaurants in New York. It’s a petite square dining room tucked away in the heart of Greenwich Village. The space, replete with comfortable chairs, linen table cloths and beige tones, is elegant and soothing.

The food is impeccable, a blend of exotic ingredients and precise flavors. Chef Anita Lo creatively blends Asian, American and even Italian to create delicious dishes. It’s all imaginative and impressive stuff. The best thing? The prices. As I left, they staff explained that they make a point of keeping prices low. They, like I do, believe that good food should be available to everyone. What a remarkable and refreshing approach. Basically, I can’t wait to go back. 

Annisa

13 Barrow St.

212-741-6699

#18 Dovetail

Hen of the woods mushrooms with delicata squash, barley and quail eggs $20

This was a light and tasty barley risotto full of truffle-y hen of the woods and delicata squash. The thick, meaty mushrooms were almost like steak, nicely balanced by the slightly sweet squash. Served with rich quail eggs and garnished with a liberal sprinkling of bright parsley.

Pistachio-crusted duck with brussels sprouts, endive and parsley root $38

The tasty, tender duck at Dovetail doesn’t disappoint. The duck is cooked sous-vide and then lightly pan seared to keep the meat tender while sealing in the flavor. It had then been prepared with a delicious, citrus-y rub of meyer lemon and pistachio crumbs. The dish was also served with a huge cannelloni filled with duck confit and foie gras. Totally decadent. For vegetables, the chef had used seasonal brussels sprouts, slightly caramelized parsley root and crunchy endive.

Dark chocolate soufflé $16

On the recommendation of a family member, I ordered the specialty dark chocolate soufflé for dessert. After presenting me with the dish, my server deftly poured a warm caramel sauce into the ramekin. I promptly dug in, enjoying the light, fluffy and totally chocolate-y soufflé.

Dovetail is certainly one of the finest eateries on the Upper West Side. The space is subdued and soothing, with white linens, muted tones and the convivial buzz of glasses clinking and cutlery on china.

The food is excellent. Chef John Fraser takes his pick of fresh, seasonal ingredients and turns them, with aplomb, into delicious, thoughtful dishes for picky diners. He doesn’t have a point to prove, just a desire to create thoroughly enjoyable cuisine.

As a note, Dovetail is on the more formal side (consider it the Upper West Side’s equivalent to Café Boulud on the Upper East).

Dovetail

103 W. 77th St.

212-362-3800

#47 The Little Owl

Whole wheat pancakes $8

A perfect stack of moist, fluffy pancakes. In this case, the batter was made from denser whole wheat, along with flavorful almond flour, which made these a little bit heartier than other pancakes. When they arrived, I eagerly covered them with sticky, sweet maple syrup. However, my qualm with this dish was the lack of berries. The menu promised that it was served with “seasonal berries” but there were only about 6 blueberries on the plate and a small, sliced strawberry. Perhaps it could have done with a tasty blueberry compote on the side, instead.

Beignets (normally $8 for 4)

The kitchen very kindly sent out one of these dense donuts for me to try. The chef had covered the big, sugary parcel with a sweet raspberry sauce and then placed it on a bed of pure Nutella. While I liked the donut, I found myself scraping off the raspberry sauce, which tasted pretty synthetic. Perhaps this dish would be better without the sauce – letting the yummy beignets speak for themselves.

While my meal at The Little Owl was small, I got a pretty good feel for the place. First off, it’s pretty tiny. There are only 5 seats at the bar and the tiny tables are crammed together, so it can get pretty loud. While some might find this frustrating, there’s a warm, cozy tone, that makes you instantly feel like a local. The staff hurry about their business (a little bit overstretched but still friendly), bringing out tasty dishes.

Unfortunately, the brunch menu doesn’t show of the talents of chef Joey Campanaro (though, their house-marinated, thick-cut bacon is awesome). My chatty server said that the pork chop is a must. The other items on the menu look delicious, so I’m looking forward to going back. As a note, be prepared to wait. The good news is that there are some cute benches outside to hang out on and plenty of window shopping in the area.

The Little Owl

90 Bedford St.

212-741-4695

#43 Má Pêche

Foie gras $18

Thick tubes of rich, Hudson Valley foie gras, coated in crumbled malt. Delicate slices of lightly toasted French brioche added a perfect crunch. Dotted with helpings of sweet, gooey honey and garnished with mint. A thoroughly enjoyable interpretation of a French classic.

Beef jerky $18

An unusual but imaginative take on the traditional American jerky. Finely diced wagyu beef tartare, sourced from Lincoln, NE, with slivers of crisp, salty jerky. Scattered with charred pieces of corn interspersed with a flavorful béarnaise sauce. The most amusing touch was the dainty edible flowers precisely placed around the dish. (To clarify, wagyu refers to several breeds of cattle reputable for intensely marbled, tender meat. It does not necessarily reveal anything about the cattle’s diet.)

Cod $32

Underneath a mound of fresh summer green beans, egg and tomato sauce was a thick portion of tender cod from Chatham Bay, MA. The pan-seared fish was creamy and flakey, balanced by the sharp, slightly spicy sauce. On top, a fried, soft boiled egg, with a rich, delicious, runny yolk.

Steamed bun $13

As with many of David Chang’s restaurants, the buns can be hit or miss. We’ve loved the succulent versions at Noodle Bar but been unimpressed by the grimy options at Ssäm Bar. In this case, we ordered a single bun to taste and were disappointed with the result. Large pieces of lobster were slathered in a creamy sauce, overpowering the truffle-y maitake mushrooms and meaty pork chicarrón.

Niman Ranch beef $30

Two huge chunks of tender beef had been perfectly cooked: browned on the outside to keep the flavor but still rare (red, as we ordered it) on the inside. In an interesting twist, it was served with crunchy potato skins, which were almost like the chip’s more upscale cousin. Garnished with spring onion and sour cream. Tasty and substantial.

With its Asian-inspired but American-focused menu, Chef David Chang’s Má Pêche is probably the most domesticated property in his ever-expanding Momofuku empire. The menu more closely adheres to the traditional American menu format: smaller starters (including tasty oysters), bigger mains with a couple of simple desserts to follow. The options are often based around excellent, well-sourced ingredients, showcasing these flavors. That being said, the food is on the expensive side and perhaps unjustifiably so. In addition, the windowless space can feel a bit cavernous. They’ve done a good job of distracting you from this but there’s still a slight sense of claustrophobia.

Má Pêche

15 W. 56th St.

212-757-5878

#62 Veritas

Crab salad $19

Inside a light and crunchy filo ring was a bountiful portion of tender, juicy crab. The buttery meat was infused with lemon to bring out the delicate, creamy flavors. Served on a bed of tart, almost like a thick vinaigrette, and garnished with olives, freshly dressed arugula and a sliver of crisp red onion.

Ocean and land $23

This interesting combination paired fresh lobster with intense, luxurious bone marrow. The lobster (half a tail and claw) was sweet and tender. The bone was served in an interesting way: sawed in half to reveal velvety marrow. The two components complimented each other ideally, with the marrow serving as a decadent alternative to simple butter. Garnished with a handful of sharp cilantro for freshness and a bit of sliced red onion.

Maple-brined Wooly pig $38

As I learnt, Wooly pig is an American hog derived from the Mangalista breed. It’s reputable for its extreme marbling (apparently double the marbling of regular pork) and deep flavor. The thick slices of maple-brined pork were slightly pink and indulgently sweet. On top was a large pork croquette: crunchy on the outside with smooth mouthfuls of pork on the inside. Plated with a handful of charred tomatoes and wilted butter lettuce. Covered with a sweet sauce, which was perhaps a bit too much sugar for the dish.

Pan roasted veal chop $49

Given that veal is normally considered a delicate, dainty meat, this was a fun way to diverge from the norm. Served on the bone, this gigantic hunk of meat had been perfectly browned on the outside but was infused with extra flavor. While working on a chop can be taxing, this was certainly worth it. On the side was a serving short rib ravioli: a hearty addition to add depth to the dish. There was also a large assortment of seasonal mushrooms. Hen of the wood, oyster, trumpet and shitake all added delicious truffle notes. Crowned with a generous amount of fresh watercress.

Warm madeleines $12

Pastry chef Rowan Johnson clearly has a penchant for French cuisine and this was clear from our first dessert. The small mug was filled with fluffy bites of vanilla pastry. Spongy, delicate mouthfuls of sweet baked goodness, all lightly dusted with icing sugar. To the right, a scoop of refreshing lemon grass ice cream (which perhaps could have been a little bit sharper), placed on a bed of summer blueberry compote.

Nectarines and cream $11

Most likely one of the more responsible options on the menu, this somewhat simple dish combined four thin chunks of poached nectarine with a smooth and mild vanilla crème and a quenelle of clean lemon basil sorbet. While prettily plated, it didn’t feel totally honest to the description and might have merited more nectarine.

While reputable for its wines, Veritas can comfortably pride itself of strong cooking, as well. Chef Sam Hazen was brought in about two years ago to update the menu from French to modern American and has done an excellent job. The small menu reflects his commitment to quality, using delicious ingredients in intelligent parings. All of the options are a pleasure to eat: unpretentious, bountiful both in size and flavor. Of course, they’re not earth shattering but that’s not what Chef Hazen sets out to do, anyway. The small space is modest. Nicely lit, neither too dark nor too bright. High-backed chairs, wooden tables and wine racks on two sides of the dining room. There’s also a nice bar at the front, should you wish to dine alone.

With this in mind, I’m certainly excited to venture back and explore some of the other options available. Just bear in mind that it’s rather expensive.

Veritas

43 E. 20th St. 

212-353-3700

#13 WD~50

Scrambled egg ravioli with charred avocado and Kindai kanpachi

At the top, a weird, canary yellow cube of “ravioli.” Inside the thick, sticky skin was a blob of stodgy scrambled egg. To the right, thick, citrus-infused slices of kindai kanpachi (a fatty yet eco-friendly alternative to Japanese tuna Bluefin tuna). These chewy slivers could have been much thinner and delicate. Below this, a strange cylinder of gooey burnt avocado puree, so rich and heavy that we only ate half of it. Then, in the center of the plate, a strange sprinkling of tiny breadcrumbs.

Pickled beef tongue with fried mayo, tomato molasses, onion soil and romaine

The thinly sliced pickled tongue was apparently a reference to nearby Katz’ Delicatessen but, to my mind, they should have just gone to the deli and bought the meat there. The sour, tangy flesh was akin to a pastrami but with much more vinegar. It was plated with three disgusting parcels of fried mayo: crunchy on the outside but, inside, solidified bites of mayonnaise. To the left was a strange smear of thick, cloying burnt tomato molasses: sweet and sickly. On the right, more pretention, with a long slash of bland onion soil and crunchy crumbs of romaine husks. This was probably one of the most pretentious, overstated and unpleasant dishes I’ve ever had.

Lamb loin with black garlic romesco, pickled ramp and dried soybean

A tiny sliver of tender, perfectly cooked lamb loin, ruined with an obnoxious assortment of flavors and textures. For the second time in one meal, the chef used the tired technique of smearing a sauce onto the plate. This dark condiment, originally from the Catalan region of Spain, was a combination of toasted almonds, black garlic, peppers and other spices. Burnt and sweet, it wasn’t so different from the tomato molasses. The tart pickled ramp wasn’t particularly tasty or interesting and hinted at the chef’s limited culinary vocabulary (two pickled items in one menu?). It was garnished with micro basil: another unnecessary, obnoxious extra.

Blueberry cheesecake with wild blueberries, plantain and lime *not pictured

A bizarre interpretation of cheesecake, with small oblong bites of cake. Sprinkled around the plate were five gelatinous violet shells filled with turgid morsels of bland cheesecake. Dotted with spills of lime sour cream next to a quenelle of blueberry sorbet, sat upon a bed of snickerdoodle crumble. Finally, garnished with five random blueberries and a dusting of lime zest.

Hello, 1995. Step into Chef Wylie Dufrense’s weird world and take a trip back to the dark age of deconstructed, molecular gastronomy. But here, things haven’t advanced much since then. Throughout the meal, he employed the same technique multiple times. He fries, pickles or puts everything into small balls. None of these are things that I find particularly appealing. The flavors are bland, the ingredients boring and the pretentious plating is totally over the top. Plus, I think we’re all weary of staff dressed in blue jeans and chambray aprons. That trend ended many years ago.

Admittedly, this $75 menu was “from the vault,” bringing out old “classics.” However, these dishes weren’t classics to my mind. They were tired, outdated tricks that are no longer relevant or interesting today. That’s probably a good way to describe this place. Don’t bother. 

WD~50 

50 Clinton St. 

212-477-2900

#82 The Mark

Steamed Maine halibut $41

First off, this was probably the most promptly delivered dish I’ve ever eaten. Almost immediately after I ordered, my server brought over the freshly prepared fish. A light, healthy, summertime choice, the large filet of mild-flavored white fish that had been delicately steamed. As I ate, it practically melted, small pieces forming tasty little flakes. It was served on a bed of basil and crushed tomatoes. The bountiful sauce, however, was loaded with vinegar and too sharp for my taste. It was peppered with small bread crumbs and suffused with olive oil but it wasn’t enough. Instead of the rich, earthy flavors of olive oil, I was shocked with big hits of vinegar that overpowered the subtle notes of the halibut.

Raspberry-lemon tart $12

While good, this was likely the tiniest serving of tart available in the city. Perhaps five inches long, the diet-sized portion of dessert was an excellent expression of the classic lemon tart. Light lemon cream, tart and sweet, on a crunchy, crumbly buttery base. Crowned with lightly sugared raspberries. A pretty but prissy dessert and extremely expensive, given its size.

Located in the fancy Mark hotel on the Upper East Side, the Mark restaurant caters to a very particular, patrician clientele. Awash with pearl-sporting ladies and jacketed gentlemen, the elegant crowed aren’t here for a culinary journey but simply some reliable in a buzzy setting. It seems that Jean Georges Vongerichten has found a winning recipe, at least in their minds.

To me, the food was full of crisp and clean flavors. Nothing too heavy and certainly no portions too big, especially for a crowd who appear to be watching their weight (and doing a good job of it). However, it’s neither imaginative or exciting. Instead, it feels too fussy, which, admittedly, works for some.

The Mark

25 E. 77th St.

212-606-3030

#42 Blue Hill *Note: In respect of Blue Hill’s no flash photography policy, there are no images of the main course and dessert. Summer bean and pea salad $18 A beautiful plate of fresh summer greens. An assortment of crunchy yellow and green beans, brought in from the farm upstate. Rich chunks of moist and tender grilled nectarine added sharp sweet hits to the dish, balanced by tart chunks of pickled cucumber. Muddled with spicy cilantro and a light dressing to create a bright bouquet of flavors and textures. Sockeye salmon $36 These salmon filets, brought down from Bristol Bay, Alaska, were absolutely exquisite. Thick pieces of tender fish that were so creamy they tasted almost like butter. Sockeye salmon are renowned for their firm flesh and salmon-y flavors. The soccotash was a classic mixture of corn and fresh beans, adding a slight crunch to balance the velvety salmon. Mixed in were sweet tomatoes and small chunks of mild Stone Barns bacon. A rather tasty dish, though I found the salmon was so rich that it could have spoken for itself without the added accompaniments. Blueberries $12 A simple yet satisfying take on tasty summer blueberries. Inside a wide cup, a generous serving of homemade blueberry compote underneath cool natural yoghurt. Garnished with crunchy granola and crowned with a small scoop of light fromage blanc sorbet. Without question, chef Dan Barber has perfected the art of fine farm-to-table fare. Inside his subdued space, the discreet, knowledgeable servers will present you with an enchanting array of fresh vegetables, excellent meat and fish and flavorful fruits. The dishes, prettily plated are riffs off fantastic seasonal produce, presenting elegant and harmonious flavors. And, there’s no nonsense about portion size: you’ll certainly walk away with your appetite sated. Blue Hill 75 Washington Pl. 212-539-1776
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#42 Blue Hill

*Note: In respect of Blue Hill’s no flash photography policy, there are no images of the main course and dessert.

Summer bean and pea salad $18

A beautiful plate of fresh summer greens. An assortment of crunchy yellow and green beans, brought in from the farm upstate. Rich chunks of moist and tender grilled nectarine added sharp sweet hits to the dish, balanced by tart chunks of pickled cucumber. Muddled with spicy cilantro and a light dressing to create a bright bouquet of flavors and textures.

Sockeye salmon $36

These salmon filets, brought down from Bristol Bay, Alaska, were absolutely exquisite. Thick pieces of tender fish that were so creamy they tasted almost like butter. Sockeye salmon are renowned for their firm flesh and salmon-y flavors. The soccotash was a classic mixture of corn and fresh beans, adding a slight crunch to balance the velvety salmon. Mixed in were sweet tomatoes and small chunks of mild Stone Barns bacon. A rather tasty dish, though I found the salmon was so rich that it could have spoken for itself without the added accompaniments.

Blueberries $12

A simple yet satisfying take on tasty summer blueberries. Inside a wide cup, a generous serving of homemade blueberry compote underneath cool natural yoghurt. Garnished with crunchy granola and crowned with a small scoop of light fromage blanc sorbet.

Without question, chef Dan Barber has perfected the art of fine farm-to-table fare. Inside his subdued space, the discreet, knowledgeable servers will present you with an enchanting array of fresh vegetables, excellent meat and fish and flavorful fruits. The dishes, prettily plated are riffs off fantastic seasonal produce, presenting elegant and harmonious flavors. And, there’s no nonsense about portion size: you’ll certainly walk away with your appetite sated.

Blue Hill

75 Washington Pl.

212-539-1776

#35 Aldea

Green and white asparagus with sunny-side up hen egg and black truffle $13

An impeccable early summer dish, taking advantage of fresh, seasonal white and green asparagus. While I normally prefer green asparagus (I find it more flavorful), the artful pairing of the two varietals brought forth a harmonious blend of tasty, slightly woody notes. On top of this, a fried hen egg with a delicious, runny yolk and, underneath, a small slice of toast that added a nice crunch. Served with small portions of intense, earthy black truffle sauce. Finally, garnished with a sprinkling of salt. Overall, elegantly created and artfully plated.

New England hake with cranberry bean-olive stew, “caldeirada” broth and seared Narragansett squid $27

An inventive combination of flavors and ingredients, drawing from the Portuguese culinary vocabulary. This large piece of hake (which is a fish somewhat similar to cod) was lightly cooked with a crunchy skin. The flakey meat, both sweet and tender, was plated next to a generous helping of thinly sliced squid from Narragansett, Rhode Island. Served with a light caldeirada broth, which is derived from a Portuguese stew of the same name. A fine fusion of olive oil, tomato, garlic, seafood and, delicate anise hints of Pernod. The hearty stew, a combination of chestnut-y white and green garbanzos with creamy cranberry beans (known to Italians as borlotti beans), added depth and texture to the dish. 

Caramelized brioche with sautéed pineapple, lime curd and coconut sorbet $10

A thick slice of brioche bread, delicately battered and then lightly fried. Fluffy on the inside, yet slightly crisp on the outside. Covered with sweet chunks of sautéed pineapple, drizzled with tart lime curd and plated with a small quenelle of velvety coconut sorbet. This was a carefully considered synthesis of summery, tropical flavors with the bready texture of tasty brioche. Delicious.

It’s clear that George Mendes is a particularly talented and accomplished chef. His homage to Portuguese food, Aldea (the name is loosely based on the word “village” in Portuguese), offers an impressive assortment of elegant, flavorful and unique dishes. Everything here is of an extremely high quality, from the home made bread to the delectable petits fours and surprising and satisfying chocolate truffles (accented with subtle notes of raspberry). Plus, with its friendly, knowledgeable staff and reassuringly reasonable prices, Aldea really is a standout in the crowded New York dining landscape.

For an extra special experience, head to the back of the restaurant and try to grab a seat at the chef’s counter, which looks onto the buzzy kitchen.

Aldea

31 W. 17th St.

212-675-7223