#21 Gotham Bar and Grill

Dry boat sea scallops $23

A selection of plump, seared and slightly sweet scallops served with seasonal vegetables in a brown butter foam. Plated with morsels of earthy parsnips, delicate sunchokes and small, smooth-skinned baby binje potatoes. Covered with a light spuma and garnished with fresh watercress and chives.  

Black bass $35

A huge portion of flaky black bass on a bed of rich Mediterranean vegetables. Thick slices of caramelized fennel, baby Swiss chard, tart, lemon-y sorrel and delicate new potatoes. Surrounded by juicy sundried tomatoes and dressed with a rich black olive vinaigrette. And, of course, suffused with plenty of olive oil. While enjoyable, the intense tomatoes overpowered the dish, overwhelming the delicate flavors of the chard and sorrel. Instead, it tasted like a simple Provençal fish dish, leaving little room for the meaty bass to speak for itself.  

Free range chicken $34

This sizeable piece of tender chicken was served with a rich sauce, hearty vegetables and a generous amount of Israeli couscous. The moist chicken was plated on a bed of braised artichokes, fava beans, truffle-y hen of the woods mushrooms and a starchy couscous. Infused with tart preserved lemon and accented with a light, spiced yoghurt sauce for balance and flavor. Topped off with a small handful of crisp frisee lettuce.

Gotham chocolate cake, served warm with seasonal ice cream $13

This light and crumbly chocolate cake is a Gotham Bar and Grill classic. Served warm, it’s moist and fluffy, coursing with intense hits of rich chocolate. Served with a quenelle of cool, seasonal, vanilla ice cream on a bed of crumbled chocolate and plated with a swipe of thick chocolate sauce. Tasty but also a bit dated. Plus, we felt that it could have been bigger.

While highly rated, Chef Alfred Portale’s Gotham Bar and Grill has been around for over two decades now and, as far as the menu goes, it seems to show. The well-executed dishes are tasty but somewhat unimaginative, taking classic ingredients and blending them to create standard and well known flavors. The black bass, for instance, relied far too heavily on the sweet punch of the sundried tomatoes.

With its cavernous space and waistcoat-equipped waiters, this New York establishment is more of an expense account eatery than a place to enjoy a tasty meal. We were also disappointed by the somewhat snooty staff. Head this way if you want classic American fare (the New York strip is meant to be quite excellent) but don’t expect culinary fireworks.

Gotham Bar and Grill

12 E. 12th St.

212-620-4020

#16 ABC Kitchen

Sugar snap pea salad with parmesan dressing and herbs $15

A delightfully crunchy combination of refreshing seasonal greens. A mound of shredded sweet sugar snap peas mixed with crunchy red endive. Muddled with flavorful parmesan crumbs, along with fresh chives, mint and other herbs. Tossed in a light, tart vinaigrette. A perfect late spring dish.

Steamed halibut with asparagus, tapenade and sorrel $29

A thick serving of steamed halibut, placed on a bed of sautéed asparagus and other tasty greens. The fish was perfectly cooked, melting into flaky mouthfuls of buttery flesh, accented with just the right amount of lemon zest. The thinly sliced asparagus was mixed with salty black olives, bringing bright farm-fresh flavors to the dish. Plated with a tart, slightly sour yet creamy sorrel sauce. An elegant and cohesive creation.

Strawberry honey shortcake with strawberry sorbet and buttermilk lemon sorbet $11

This classic dessert was a delicious medley of spring-summer flavors. As we learnt, shortcake is effectively a sweet biscuit: a crumbly, leavened bread.  For this version, the chef layered sugary-sweet, marinated strawberries with mild and spongy cake. The thinly sliced berries were garnished with luxurious whipped cream and, over time, the juice slowly seeped into the fluffy shortcake. Served with a cool buttermilk lemon sorbet and a rich red strawberry sorbet.

Over the course of this short meal, Chef Kluger provided an impressive assortment of tightly prepared, flavorful, seasonally appropriate dishes. The high-quality ingredients really shine through, always accented with interesting elements like sorrel sauce, lemon zest or simple sorbets. Don’t be deceived by the rustic décor and toned-down flatware, the food here is remarkably complex. If you can get a reservation (which is surprisingly tricky), you won’t be disappointed.

ABC Kitchen

35 E. 18th St.

212-475-5829

#46 The Spotted Pig

Chargrilled burger with Roquefort and shoestrings $20

A delicious, delightfully charred burger, certainly one of the best in New York. A thick patty of tender, succulent steak, topped with a small dollop of intense, velvety Roquefort. All this was sandwiched between two perfectly grilled buns courtesy of Tom Cat bakery: grilled on the outside but light fluffy on the inside.

The fries alone deserve their own dish. This huge heap of salty shoestrings was filled with fresh sprigs of rosemary and potent slivers of yummy garlic. Just the right kind of crispy, these fries are an impressive interpretation of the traditional frites. Totally moreish.

Rhubarb tart $8

A simple slice of sharp yet sweet seasonal rhubarb on a crumbly crust. Served chilled, the gooey rhubarb was a bit too potent for my tastes. Drizzled with homemade rhubarb sauce, plated with a crème fraiche quenelle and sprinkled with icing sugar.

For the most part, The Spotted Pig offers a tasty meal. Chef Bloomfield has put together a strong menu of decadent dishes. For the most part, I’ve enjoyed the food I’ve ordered in the past. While the menu is rather meat-heavy, there are also a series of vegetarian appetizers and side dishes. (However, these are often smothered in butter or olive oil – which isn’t always a bad thing.) As far as desserts go, the scant list of options hint that this isn’t the place for a delicious crème brulee or other sweet things. No matter, though, as you’ll be so satisfied after your main courses, you won’t want anything else. However, where The Spotted Pig fails is in the service department. The nonchalant, inattentive staff border on rude, thrusting menus at you and impatiently waiting for you to decide on what to have for dinner. This “too cool for school” service lends an unfriendly tone that really disappoints, detracting hugely from the dining experience.

The Spotted Pig

314 W. 11th St.

212-620-0393

#70 The Standard Grill

“Million dollar” whole roast chicken $34

Huge portion of moist roast chicken smothered with a buttery lemon crème fraiche marinade. The juicy meat had rich citrus hints accented with tasty bay leaves. Served with two thick slices of sautéed peasant bread, which quickly soaked up all the delicious juice at the bottom of the dish. Garnished with freshly cut lemons and a few sprigs of mache lettuce for color. A wonderful, homey dish, and definitely big enough for two (and possibly even three, if you’re light eaters). Particularly reasonable, too.

Long Island duck breast with spiced orange sauce, farro, fava beans and peas $28

Eight thick slices of tender grilled duck breast, bursting with wonderful slightly gamy flavors. Poached atop a bed of English peas, fave beans and hearty farro, which added a great dense contrast to the delicate meat. Plated with a rich, buttery spiced orange sauce and sprinkled with salt.

Banoffee pie $9

Inside a crumbly, sugary shortbread crust was an intense and creamy mixture of sweet crème, thinly sliced banana and big hits of gooey toffee. Just the right texture (neither too stodgy nor too runny) and drizzled with a generous layer of sweet caramel. The base was a little bit too hard – I had to hack away at it with my spoon – but otherwise tasty. Topped with a dense whipped cream quenelle.

Sour cream cheesecake $9

A generous serving of decadent cheesecake on a crisp and sweet base. Light yet flavorful, the cake was perfectly cooked. Plated with chunks of roasted pineapple, bursting with tart notes to contrast the deep creamy cheesecake. Garnished with crunchy sesame macadamia nut brittle and small torn mint leaves for color and flavor.

At The Standard Grill, Chef Silverman has put together an admirable menu that brings fresh seasonal goods to the table with simple and tasty accompaniments. The meats are well cooked and pleasantly seasoned, the vegetables served just right and the deserts excellently executed. The menu is definitely a winner.

Where The Standard fails, however, is on the logistical side. The bustling restaurant is loud and overcrowded and this shows both in service and the general dining experience. When we finally found a table and were about to place our orders, our server announced that the kitchen had run out of the day’s special. As time went on, we noticed that we were missing bread. After asking our server, she explained that they were “rationing” bread, as the kitchen was quickly running out. Running out of bread…? Very unusual. And, to make matters worse, the bread wasn’t good at all.

As you consider dining at The Standard, please do keep all of this in mind. The well thought out menu showcases great food and the dishes are replete of smart nuances that bring out the flavors of the main ingredients. Getting to the table, on the other hand, can be challenging. Is it worth the effort? I’d say so.

The Standard Grill

848 Washington St.

212-645-4100

#95 Waverly Inn

Tuna tartare with lime, sesame and avocado $16

A substantial serving of tender tuna chunks, marinated in tart lime juice and seasoned with a light, slightly creamy sauce. Strong citrus notes, heightened with spicy hints and sliced chive. Plated with a large green chili pepper and pureed avocado sauce as a garnish. Clean and tasty.

Country salad of frisee, lardons and poached organic egg $13

A delicious, perfectly cooked poached egg placed upon large bed of fresh, crisp frisee lettuce. The leaves had been tossed in a sharp but tasty French vinaigrette. Mixed with my favorite kind of crunchy, fatty lardons, and just enough of them to add interesting texture and flavor. Garnished with a small dose of olive oil and freshly ground pepper. A classic staple, done very well.

Steamed black sea bass with artichokes and olive oil sauce $34

A sizeable portion of mild yet tasty sea bass that had been gently steamed to bring out the delicate flavors. Placed upon a bed of stewed artichoke and sliced carrots, which brought seasonal, spring tones to the dish. Accented with peppery olive oil and garnished with sprigs of parsley.

Dover sole with hollandaise and string beans $46

A wonderfully simple dish and served just right. Plus, as a Brit, this is one of my favorite options and reminds me of the timeless and elegant J Sheeky in London. The sole, which was nicely browned, had been simply patted with flour and sautéed. I asked the chef to filet the sole, which he did so perfectly. The finely textured filet was delicious, especially once I added a bit of lemon. The sautéed string beans were buttery and delicious. The large dollop of excellently prepared hollandaise sauce was a big plus.

From the moment you step into the Waverly Inn, you know you’re about to have a particularly pleasant meal. The intimate space has stylish red leather banquettes and classic wooden floors. There’s even a roaring fireplace at the back of the dining room. The menu is a repertoire of English-influenced classics, mixed in with enjoyable American options like Bananas Foster. The best thing is that, every 15 minutes, your server will bring out freshly baked biscuits, warm, fluffy bites of goodness, served with sweet butter.

Of course, there’s a certain cool-factor to the restaurant, which can be a bit distracting. There is, as I expected, a no photo policy, so I suppose we were lucky to get the sneaky shots we did. (We also had delicious desserts but had reached our photo quota by that point.)

Overall, I really enjoyed my time at the Waverly Inn and, despite the ostensibly irksome policies, I fully intend to go back. The good food, friendly service and cozy atmosphere offer a wonderful retreat from the outside world.

The Waverly Inn

16 Bank St. 

917-828-1154

#72 Prune

Egg “en cocotte” $12

The term, “en cocotte,” derives from the ramekin in which the eggs are cooked. In this version, the egg was prepared with small pieces of savory chicken and thick gravy, to create a rich, flavorful mix. The egg had been perfectly cooked: just the right kind of runny for an early Sunday afternoon. Served with a small mixed lettuce salad, tossed in a tart French vinaigrette and plated two thick slices of yummy, crunchy toast (which I used to soak up the delicious yolk).

Sausages and oysters $18

A fun dish that brought together, I suppose, surf and turf on one plate. Three small creamy Malpeque oysters and a slightly spicy grilled homemade lamb sausage. Served with a large portion of stewed tomato and grilled peasant bread to finish.

Fresh ricotta $13

A huge mound of fresh soft ricotta peppered with an assortment of interesting items. Juicy and flavorful raspberries mixed with sweet and striking morsels of sun-dried figs. Sprinkled with toasted pine nuts and liberally glazed with luxurious honey. Plated with three citrus-accented merveilles. (These were small, fried scones that were blissful. Served warm, the light and fluffy merveilles were totally moreish.) This bountiful dish was a simple yet interesting option, mixing hot baked goods with cool, creamy ricotta, all accented with berry and citrus hints.

Prune is certainly one of the most happening places on the Lower East Side. People are always eager to explore Chef Gabrielle Hamilton’s unique and enjoyable creations. While the space is small, the food merits a wait. There are an array of surprising and fun options that you’re unlikely to encounter anywhere else in the city. Her food is cleverly prepared yet unpretentious, a refreshing experience. Plus, at brunch, the Bloody Maries are pretty cool (as I only found out now, there’s actually an entire menu for them!). Be prepared for a small space and a potentially too long wait but, if you don’t mind practically sitting in someone’s lap, you’ll be in for a treat.

NOTE: They take reservations for lunch and dinner, which can make your experience a lot smoother.

Prune

54 E. 1st St.

212-677-6221

#45 Vinegar Hill House

Stuffed squid with braised oxtail and wilted spinach $12

Delicious sweet soy-glazed squid, filled with rich, gamy oxtail. The tender, buttery squid was served on a bed of fresh, semi-sweet wilted spinach, all garnished with sesame seeds. An unusual combination of ingredients and flavors.

Vinegar Hill’s special vegan salad $20

The chef very kindly put together this tasty vegan-friendly feast for my dining companion: A bountiful mix of seasonal vegetables. A heaped serving of groats (which are whole grains, similar to barley or buckwheat) mixed with small pitted black olives. Many fresh roasted carrots, small slices of radish, thick shaved asparagus, spicy dandelion greens, watercress. Fleshy chunks of orange added mild citrus hints, while roasted pumpkin seeds added extra crunch. Pretty good!

Red Wattle Country chop $27

A gigantic serving of wonderfully tender pork. The chop had been brined for three days with juniper berries, which meant the meat was delicate and flavorful, with mild and sweet berry notes. It was seared and then cooked in a wood fire oven to add a smoky notes. Served on a large bed of tart, honey-infused sauerkraut. A simple dish, excellently executed.

Salted caramel custard with pecan shortbread $8

Even though my dining companion couldn’t partake, I decided to indulge myself with a dessert. This large caramel pot was the perfect ending. Crowned with a beautiful portion of fresh whipped cream, the dense custard was an intense hit of salted caramel. Accented with just a tiny hint of rum to add extra depth to the flavors. Served with two small, buttery, crumbly pecan shortbreads. Even though I shouldn’t have, I ate it all. By myself.

A trip out to Vinegar Hill House is the ideal antidote to a busy week in Manhattan. As you walk down Hudson Avenue, it feels as if you are slowly leaving New York behind and wondering out into the wilderness. The restaurant has a great rustic feel, old wooden tables, a jumble of cutlery and freshly picked flowers on each table (in jam jars, of course). The food makes great use of seasonal ingredients, creating rich and interesting flavors that are fun to explore. There’s a no nonsense approach to cooking here, one that’s reflected in the great portion sizes. Overall, Vinegar Hill House is definitely worth checking out. And, while a bit noisy, the cozy atmosphere makes it a fun place for a date.

Vinegar Hill House

72 Hudson Ave.

Vinegar Hill

718-522-1018

#6 Gramercy Tavern

Baked Long Island clams $14

These tasty clams (there were originally four but we hastily ate two of them) were served warm and filled with potatoes and leeks.  Covered in crunchy breadcrumb and butter gratin.

Radish, beat and quinoa salad $12

A mound of fresh greens, served with thinly sliced red radish and served on a bed of quinoa salad. Mixed with big chunks of beautiful purple beetroot. Unfortunately, the earthy quinoa had been seeped in vinegar for a little too long, which meant it was a little sour and soggy.

Duck toast with spring greens and toasted almonds $12

Two small crostinis heaped with big portions of rich, moist duck. Garnished with herbs. Served with a large heaping of spicy green salad, drizzled with olive oil, salt and pepper. Tasty, if a bit salty.

Monkfish with citrus salad and blood orange vinaigrette $22

The most delicious morsels of tender, creamy monkfish. It was perfectly cooked, practically melting in your mouth. Plated with fleshy pieces of deep red blood orange. The chef added slices of delicious of seasonal sunchoke to ground the strong, slightly bitter flavors from the orange. Served in a light citrus vinaigrette and garnished with a few parsley leaves. Without a doubt, one of the best monkfish dishes I’ve had in a while.

Rhubarb bread pudding with cinnamon sour cream ice cream $9

A buttery, crumbly bread pudding with bits of tart rhubarb. Perfectly baked so it was lightly browned on the top but just right in the middle. Garnished with crunchy almond flakes and served with a serving of finely seasoned smooth cinnamon ice cream. Absolutely ideal.

Ricotta cheesecake with fudge brownie and black currant sorbet $9

This dessert was absolute heaven. A huge slice of totally decadent, rich ricotta cheese. Sat atop a base of intense dark chocolate fudge-y brownie. The ultimate version of a traditional cheesecake. Served with a scoop of fuscia-colored, totally flavorful black current sorbet. Garnished with thick chocolate sauce and nut brittle. A brilliant way to end the meal.

The Gramercy Tavern’s excellent reputation is 110% deserved. From the moment we arrived, the courteous staff treated us impeccably. The food was excellent: interesting dishes done with skill and precision, pulling together complex flavors for impressive results. The chef showcased the quality of the ingredients, allowing them to speak for themselves, blending them to create harmonious and memorable dishes. The added bonus: everything is remarkably reasonable.

Finally, a huge thank you to the wonderful Emma for taking care of us. She made an already excellent meal even better.

Gramercy Tavern

42 E. 20th St.

212-477-0777

#55 Gordon Ramsey at the London

Spring nettle risotto with preserved ramps, fava beams, sweet crosnes and crispy sunchoke

A small portion of al-dente risotto served with seasonal nettle, green fava beans, sunchoke and crosnes, which is a type of artichoke. Mild and tasty with subtle spring flavors and relatively light.

Confit Hudson Valley foie gras with salted pistachio, poached capon and celery whipped Sauternes

A tasty pairing of cool and warm servings of rich foie. A roll of foie gras confit rubbed with trumpet mushroom and fennel seed was delicate and delicious. On the other side of the plate was a layer of thin tranches of luxurious poached capon on a sweet slice of pear to bring out the flavor. This warm, melt-in-your-mouth combination was delicious. All served with a light, fluffy Sauternes crème, with sweet, slightly floral notes to complement the dish. A competent and nuanced exploration of deep foie flavors.

Filet of turbot with rainbow Swiss chard, crosnes, baked oxtail and Champagne sauce

Elegantly plated filet of flaky turbot served on a bed of wilted Swiss chard. Once the dish arrived, our server elegantly poured a light Champagne sauce over the fish. This blended harmoniously with the turbot’s delicate flavors. The three parcels of sweet and sticky baked oxtail were gently breaded, crunchy on the outside but moist and tender on the inside. They were coated in a macadamia nut crust. While I enjoyed eating them (as an avid carnivore), these three components felt a bit incongruous with the dish, both in terms of flavor and texture.

Mediterranean sea bass with black olive crumble, roasted gnocchi, pepper consommé and sweet and sour aubergine

Two slices of sea bass served together with the skin. The bass had been lightly sautéed, which meant it a combination of nice, slightly crispy skin, followed by the buttery flavors of the fish itself.  The sweet and sour aubergine was a pleasant addition to the dish and the tart, tomato-y flavors certainly seemed like an appropriate accompaniment to the Mediterranean sea bass. This was served on a fragrant bed of black olive crumble: small crumbs that yielded warm olive flavors, complimented by the simple pepper consommé. Unfortunately, the small bites of roasted gnocchi were a bit bland and rubbery and felt like an unnecessary addition to a reasonable and pleasant dish.

Apricot soufflé with lemon thyme ice cream

Undoubtedly a beautiful looking desert, this dish was, in the end, rather disappointing. We excitedly dug into the tall and perfectly browned soufflé but were surprised at how thick and stodgy it was. The apricot came through strong and heavy, along with an unpleasant eggy flavor. It felt closer to flan that soufflé so we barely ate barely half of it and left it at that. There was, however, a delicious (yet tiny) scoop of lemon and thyme ice cream. That was probably the best part of the desert.

Beurre noisette parfait

The smooth parfait had refreshing hints of lime. The sweet, crunchy pecan brittle added interesting textural balance to the smooth and sugar cake.  This was served with slices of delicious and unusual preserved pear.

The dessert trolley

At the end, our server brought over a giant dessert trolley, brimming with candied strawberries, buttery chocolate truffles, more pecan brittle, mini macarons and other sweet delights. I contentedly went from shelf to shelf, picking one item after the next to add to our already overflowing plate. While tasty, it seemed that the desert team had chosen to cover everything but specialize in nothing. Plus, after asking our server, it turns out that very few of the items are made fresh daily. Given what we were expecting, this was a big disappointment.

Overall, we were disappointed with our meal at Gordon Ramsey. While good, the food certainly wasn’t remarkable. The chef stuck to traditional flavors and unimaginative combinations, often adding elements that didn’t really and even cluttered the dish. The space itself is somewhat sterile: covers for only 45 people spread across a rectangular, box-like room in muted cream tones. Plus, at $135 per person, it didn’t feel like particularly good value, especially given the portion sizes and relatively simple food. Of course, there is the requisite amuse bouche (two, actually) and a light scoop of sorbet to cleanse the palate before desert (tequila jelly and a special serving of mandarin for me, as I’m alcohol intolerant) but, even so, the price was certainly unjustified. If you’re in the neighborhood, my recommendation, head to the Modern. The food’s better and definitely more reasonable.

Note: Huge thanks to my generous dining companion (the self-proclaimed “desert prostitute”) for treating me to dinner. Your company alone made the meal!

Gordon Ramsey at the London

151 W. 54th St.

212-468-8888

#69 The Dutch

Cornmeal flapjacks with salted butter and blueberries $16

Three decently sized pancakes, served fresh from the griddle. The grainy cornmeal offered a more interesting take on this traditional brunch fare. Unlike flour pancakes, which are light, sweet and fluffy, these were dense and slightly savory. The butter was thick, creamy and certainly salted. (One of the best parts of slathering it on pancakes is watching the creamy stuff slowly melt.) Unfortunately, the blueberries were unexpectedly served as a compote, which was a little too mild and syrupy for my tastes - I would have preferred fresh blueberries. Instead, I ended up having to slowly scoop the compote out onto my pancakes, only to be disappointed it wasn’t more tart. That sugary punch would have added valuable balance to this surprisingly savory dish.

Applewood smoked bacon $7

Yum yum. Thick rashers of smoky bacon, crunchy not crispy - just how I like ‘em. I dipped mine in syrup and munched away.

Almond French toast with bananas foster $16

My dining companion definitely made the better decision when he ordered plate of rich, sweet, almond and banana goodness. Four big slices of thick bread, battered, grilled and doused in tasty syrup. The “toast” could have been a bit more toasted: it was delicious but a bit too soft and sloppy. The chunks of sugared, cinnamon-sprinkled banana were proudly placed on top of the dish were just right. The cold and creamy scoop of vanilla ice cream (I wished there was more) balanced the hints of smoky rum. All of this was garnished with crunchy flakes of almond and icing sugar. Though, I thought the almond flavors could have come through stronger. Not too bad for French toast and definitely worth ordering next time you pop by for brunch.

(If you’re interested, Bananas Foster was apparently invented in 1951 by chef Paul Brennan in the fine city of New Orleans. This fine dessert was created for Richard Foster, a restaurant regular who served with Brennan on the New Orleans Crime Commission.)

Overall, The Dutch does a fine job at brunch. The space is light and airy, the atmosphere energetic and the servers friendly and attentive. Unfortunately, I found the food mild, simple and slightly unimaginative. The preparation was good but not enough to compensate. For example, the blueberry compote could have been fresher and the toast better cooked. The Dutch is definitely a social experience, though. I very happily bumped into two people I knew!

The Dutch

131 Sullivan St.

212-677-6200