#47 The Little Owl

Whole wheat pancakes $8

A perfect stack of moist, fluffy pancakes. In this case, the batter was made from denser whole wheat, along with flavorful almond flour, which made these a little bit heartier than other pancakes. When they arrived, I eagerly covered them with sticky, sweet maple syrup. However, my qualm with this dish was the lack of berries. The menu promised that it was served with “seasonal berries” but there were only about 6 blueberries on the plate and a small, sliced strawberry. Perhaps it could have done with a tasty blueberry compote on the side, instead.

Beignets (normally $8 for 4)

The kitchen very kindly sent out one of these dense donuts for me to try. The chef had covered the big, sugary parcel with a sweet raspberry sauce and then placed it on a bed of pure Nutella. While I liked the donut, I found myself scraping off the raspberry sauce, which tasted pretty synthetic. Perhaps this dish would be better without the sauce – letting the yummy beignets speak for themselves.

While my meal at The Little Owl was small, I got a pretty good feel for the place. First off, it’s pretty tiny. There are only 5 seats at the bar and the tiny tables are crammed together, so it can get pretty loud. While some might find this frustrating, there’s a warm, cozy tone, that makes you instantly feel like a local. The staff hurry about their business (a little bit overstretched but still friendly), bringing out tasty dishes.

Unfortunately, the brunch menu doesn’t show of the talents of chef Joey Campanaro (though, their house-marinated, thick-cut bacon is awesome). My chatty server said that the pork chop is a must. The other items on the menu look delicious, so I’m looking forward to going back. As a note, be prepared to wait. The good news is that there are some cute benches outside to hang out on and plenty of window shopping in the area.

The Little Owl

90 Bedford St.

212-741-4695

#29 Boulud Sud

Persian spiced day boat scallops $32

To some extent, it seems that scallops have made their way onto every menu in the city and have lost some of their culinary luster. However, these slightly charred, creamy morsels were a wonderful deviation from the common combinations I often encounter. Four thick and meaty scallops, placed on a bed of local corn, chanterelle mushrooms and hearty pearl couscous (also known as Israeli couscous). The base was a buttery emulsion of smoky Persian spices, like luxurious cumin or slightly sweet nutmeg. The slices of marinated cucumber and shaved radish were a smart addition. The most considerate compliment to the dish, however, was the handful of edible flowers that the chef had sprinkled on top. 

Chicken tagine $28

Tagines are one of my favorite Mediterranean dishes. Of course, I love the tagine pot, with its big, funnel-shaped lid and wide bowl. The flavors are even better. In this case, the chef had prepared a fun and complexly-flavored chicken dish. The meat was crunchy on the outside yet moist in the middle. There were also turnips, wilted spinach and potent shreds of preserved lemons. All of this was lightly seasoned and seeped in a deeply flavorful jus.

While brief, our meal gave us ample opportunity to savor Chef Daniel Boulud’s excellent interpretations of Mediterranean cooking. Opened in 2011, Boulud Sud is the newest property in Boulud’s empire, a fact that seems apparent in the clean and muted décor and the carefully constructed, subtly flavored dishes. The menu (perhaps a bit too large for my taste) draws from both the sea and the farm, affording an interesting assortment of fish and meat. And, although we skipped dessert, it looks like there are some impressive options. Almost everyone around us was eating the bright grapefruit givré. You’ll have to let me know what it’s like.

Note: Boulud Sud is a bit formal, full of pre and post theater diners but there’s a more casual seating area at the front.

Boulud Sud

20 W. 64th St.

212-595-1313

#90 Balaboosta

Grilled marinated octopus with shaved fennel, sunflower shoot and seed salad $14

The most striking smear of black I’ve ever seen on a dish. A very striking touch that felt totally appropriate for this delicious dish. Two thick and juicy morsels of octopus, grilled and slightly charred for a rich smoky flavor. The mound of crisp, fresh fennel was light and refreshing. Bitter sunflower shoots were slightly bitter (and a tad awkward to eat) but otherwise added nice color and texture to the dish. Garnished with crunchy seeds. A great starter to share or, if you’re especially hungry, to scoff all on your own.

Grilled lamb chops with Persian lime sauce, imjadra and labne, cucumber-cilantro salad $28

These tender and moist chops, which I ordered medium rare, were proudly placed on the dish. The chef served them with a generous serving of thick, creamy and slightly overpowering sauce. It could have been more cleanly done. The imjadra (a traditional middle-eastern rice and lentil dish) was blended harmoniously with a spicy cilantro salad, earthy lentils and crunchy cucumber. It was garnished with labne – a dense yoghurt to balance the flavors.

Spice rubbed skirt steak with roasted salsify, oyster mushrooms and sautéed green beans, tomato vinaigrette $26

Vibrantly seasoned steak (the cut was a little too tough for my tastes) served with seasonally appropriate salsify. Velvety oyster mushrooms but only a few green beans haphazardly strewn across the plate. Unfortunately, our chef was a bit too heavy with the brightly colored sauce.

Boneless all natural half chicken cooked “under a brick” with Israeli couscous with dried apricots, green leeks and gremolata sauce $23

A simple, clean and tasty dish. Juicy breast and thigh were moist, meaty and tender. Nicely seasoned, slightly spicy. Israeli couscous  (known as Ptitim in Israel) is a toasted pasta shaped like rice or little balls. Wheaty flavors, mixed with tart apricots and refreshing leeks. Tangy gremolata sauce, made from parsley, garlic, lemon zest and other tasty ingredients was served on the side. My dining companion and I were glad it was served on the side as the dish was very tasty without it.

Overall, Balaboosta is a great place to go for a very tasty, casual meal. The space is cosy, the staff friendly (if a bit frazzled) and the food is reliable and an interesting mix of fine Mediterranean and flavorful middle-eastern. At times, the sauces were too applied too liberally, overpowering a simple dish with an unnecessary excess of flavors. Oh, and the garlicy smoked eggplant bruschetta is a must have. I promise, you won’t regret it!

Balaboosta

241 Mulberry St.

212-966-7366