dining 101: the food sluts

#83 Telepan Autumn caprese salad $16 Underneath four dainty...

Wed, 02 Jan 2013 07:12:39 -0500

Autumn caprese salad $16

Squash soup $12

Kabocha squash tortelloni $23

Duck and foie gras ravioli $26

Pumpkin cheesecake sundae $13

#83 Telepan

Autumn caprese salad $16

Underneath four dainty rings of sliced pear was a thick slab of house-made mozzarella and a bed of spicy arugula. The pears, sweet, tart and crisp, paired well with the smooth, creamy cheese. The small mouthfuls of fried artichokes were suitably salty, charred just a little for a great charcoal flavor. Drizzled with a light balsamic vinaigrette. Disappointingly, though, we felt the dish was undone by the mozzarella, which was a bit too rubbery, like halloumi.

Squash soup $12

Created with neither butter nor cream, this soup was a perfect, warming option for darkening autumn days. Smooth and flavorful, the delicious soup was filled with tiny gnocchetti, bright chestnuts and crunchy whole-wheat croutons.

Kabocha squash tortelloni $23

We didn’t regret ordering this second squash dish during our meal. One of the better pastas available, the thick tortelloni were filled with luxurious kabocha squash (a Japanese variety of winter squash, known for its strong, yet sweet flavor and moist, fluffy texture). The generous parcels were covered with flavorful, truffle-y wild mushrooms, grated pecorino cheese and delicious aged balsamic.

Duck and foie gras ravioli $26

Our second pasta dish was a decadent selection of duck and foie gras ravioli. While the pasta was a little thicker and sturdier than we would have liked, the packets were filled with moist, gamey meat that melted in the mouth. They were served on a bed of parsley root puree and garnished with crunchy roasted parsnip and a sweet dried-fruit sauce.

Pumpkin cheesecake sundae $13

For dessert, we decided to share this appealing-sounding sundae. When it arrived, the tall glass was filled with scoops of seasonal pumpkin and sweet cheesecake gelato. This was covered with a comforting cinnamon-caramel sauce and liberally sprinkled with glazed pecans. The bad news was that the pumpkin ice cream had clearly been thawed and frozen multiple times, developing the crunchy ice crystals that transform something good into something not so nice.

Having eaten at Telepan for brunch (excellent), I was excited to return for dinner. Chef Bill Telepan’s restaurant is famous for its superb farm-to-table cuisine and, for the most part, we weren’t disappointed. The meal got off to a bumpy start with some dodgy gruyere toasts as an amuse but, as we submitted our orders and the fresh bread arrived, things started looking up. The squash soup was a great autumn offering, while the caprese salad had a way to go (the mozzarella really let it down). After that, we enjoyed our pasta – noting that it wasn’t the finest, Italian-quality fare but good, hearty, American food with an elegant, farm-to-table twist. The dessert was so-so but, while Telepan is safely ensconced on the Sandy-safe Upper West Side, perhaps we should allow them some weather-related benefit of the doubt.

As far as the dining room, it’s not super casual (there are white linen table clothes and uniformed waiters) but you could stroll in with jeans and a button down shirt without a problem. The staff are friendly, the space warm and cozy and the prices pretty reasonable. All in all, an excellent choice if you’re anywhere on the Upper West Side and are looking for a thoroughly tasty, high-quality meal.

Telepan

72 W. 69^th St.

212-580-4300

#15 Annisa Artichoke gnocco with lemon confit, lemon thyme and...

Sat, 29 Dec 2012 06:01:00 -0500

Artichoke gnocco with lemon confit, lemon thyme and niçoise olives $16

Red lentil soup with Middle Eastern spices and red quinoa $15

Pear posset with elderflower and shiso $10

#15 Annisa

Artichoke gnocco with lemon confit, lemon thyme and niçoise olives $16

This was actually a starter size portion, so I imagine the main course version would be huge! The gnocco (a single gnocci) was prepared with sunchoke rather than potato. It was light and creamy, slightly crunchy on the outside. The gnocco was plated on a bed of fresh citrus flavors and crowned with two perfect pieces of grilled sunchoke.

Red lentil soup with Middle Eastern spices and red quinoa $15

What at first sight seemed to be simply a cute concept turned out to be a remarkably complex and delicious soup. The red lentil soup, thick and smooth, contained no cream and was garnished with a magical array of spices. Going clockwise, the chef had used sumac, oregano, cinnamon, Korean chili, zaatar, lemon zest, cumin, mint, quinoa, fried shallots and pomegranate in the center. I started by taking a bite of each individually and then mixed it all up to create a bold, flavorful combination.

Pear posset with elderflower and shiso $10

To explain, a posset is very similar to a thick panna cotta. The traditional English dessert is made from rich cream and seasoned with sugar. What made this version special was the layer of delicate poached pear, bright elderflower and aromatic shisho. Unfortunately, it was so sweet that it soon became sickly. Just too much sugary cream for me to enjoy entirely.

I can confidently say that Annisa is one of the most under-appreciated restaurants in New York. It’s a petite square dining room tucked away in the heart of Greenwich Village. The space, replete with comfortable chairs, linen table cloths and beige tones, is elegant and soothing.

The food is impeccable, a blend of exotic ingredients and precise flavors. Chef Anita Lo creatively blends Asian, American and even Italian to create delicious dishes. It’s all imaginative and impressive stuff. The best thing? The prices. As I left, they staff explained that they make a point of keeping prices low. They, like I do, believe that good food should be available to everyone. What a remarkable and refreshing approach. Basically, I can’t wait to go back.

Annisa

13 Barrow St.

212-741-6699

#54 Adour Alain Ducasse “Porc en beaux morceaux”...

Thu, 20 Dec 2012 11:01:00 -0500

“Porc en beaux morceaux” $38

Mont-blanc $12

#54 Adour Alain Ducasse

“Porc en beaux morceaux” $38

Experimentation isn’t the name of the game at Alain Ducasse’s recently closed restaurant at the St. Regis Hotel. The pork was a concise selection of choice meats: two pieces of dry, overcooked, pan-roasted loin and a thick chunk of chewy (not gooey, mind you) pork belly. Next to this was a small slice of rich boudin noir and a lightly charred winter pear. For added flourish, my server slowly poured a delicate sauce over the dish. This was served with a small pot of pureed butternut squash with parmesan and shredded prosciutto.

Mont-blanc $12

This was probably one of the most unusual and impressive desserts I’ve enjoyed so far. Imagine a chestnut and pear ice cream sandwich but even more delicious than it sounds. The “vermicelli” was actually chilled chestnut paste, similar to ice cream but totally decadent and pure. The filling was light, sweet Chantilly cream and delicate segments of sweet poached pear. All placed on a crunchy vanilla meringue base. Exquisite.

Adour closed in mid-November, leaving the formal dining space at the St. Regis hotel temporarily empty. Does this leave a hole in the fabric of New York’s dining tapestry? I’m not so sure. The food at Adour was clearly excellent when the restaurant first opened but, when I went, it seemed to be in a slow decline. Interesting legacy items on the menu (the Mont-Blanc was particularly impressive) but seemingly slopping implementation. The bread, for instance, was hard and dry – always a bad sign.

This being said, I’m looking forward to trying chef Alain Ducasse’s next venture. I’m sure it will be impressive.

Adour Alain Ducasse at the St. Regis

2 E. 55^th St.

212-710-2277

#86 Prime Meats Thrice cooked bacon with lima beans, pickled...

Fri, 14 Dec 2012 12:19:00 -0500

Colorado lamb stew $25

Beef sauerbraten and braised red cabbage $22

Chocolate cake $8

Thrice cooked bacon with lima beans, pickled peppers and fried duck egg $19

#86 Prime Meats

Thrice cooked bacon with lima beans, pickled peppers and fried duck egg $19

Perfect for a chilly winter evening, this special stew was chock full of hearty lima beans in a light, creamy broth. It was served with a perfectly cooked, insanely rich fried duck egg and, to the right, a decadently thick slice of thrice cooked bacon.

Colorado lamb stew $25

This was another delicious stew. The spicy broth was a full of hearty white beans. It had huge hunks of tender lamb shoulder, fatty cured lamb belly and housemade merguez sausage. The most decadent component, though, was the helping of gorgeous marrow breadcrumbs.

Beef sauerbraten and braised red cabbage $22

Prime Meats has a whole section of its menu devoted to Germanic Alpine fare, so we selected one of their classics. This was a warming winter option but not exactly our favorite item. The big pieces of beef had been slow braised in red wine, vinegar and juniper berries, making them tender but also tart. The crunchy braised red cabbage was just too sour and overpowered the dish.

Chocolate cake $8

The chocolate cake was very disappointing. The small sponge was rather flavorless and dry. The ice cream and the sauce weren’t particularly impressive, either.

Located in Brooklyn’s Carroll Gardens (one of my favorite parts of New York), Prime Meats is a cozy establishment that caters for amicable locals and eager chowhounds from the island. The space is warm and welcoming: wooden floors, dim lights, a long bar with local liquors. The tables are small (some might say cramped) but it gives you a good excuse to get comfortable with your dining companions.

The food isn’t fine but some of it is pretty darn delicious. Hearty German-American fare, with locally sourced ingredients—meat heavy, of course—and seasonal vegetables. The portion sizes are generous, too. The German alpine items and the dessert weren’t hugely impressive. Compared to establishments like Wallsé in the West Village and Seäsonal in Midtown, Prime Meats can’t compete on a culinary level.

While Prime Meats might not be a destination restaurant. consider it an excuse to go and enjoy the pleasant airs of Carroll Gardens.

Prime Meats

465 Court St.

Carroll Gardens

718-254-0327

#18 Dovetail Hen of the woods mushrooms with delicata squash,...

Tue, 11 Dec 2012 11:00:00 -0500

Hen of the woods mushrooms with delicata squash, barley and quail eggs $20

Pistachio-crusted duck with brussels sprouts, endive and parsley root $38

Dark chocolate soufflé $16

#18 Dovetail

Hen of the woods mushrooms with delicata squash, barley and quail eggs $20

This was a light and tasty barley risotto full of truffle-y hen of the woods and delicata squash. The thick, meaty mushrooms were almost like steak, nicely balanced by the slightly sweet squash. Served with rich quail eggs and garnished with a liberal sprinkling of bright parsley.

Pistachio-crusted duck with brussels sprouts, endive and parsley root $38

The tasty, tender duck at Dovetail doesn’t disappoint. The duck is cooked sous-vide and then lightly pan seared to keep the meat tender while sealing in the flavor. It had then been prepared with a delicious, citrus-y rub of meyer lemon and pistachio crumbs. The dish was also served with a huge cannelloni filled with duck confit and foie gras. Totally decadent. For vegetables, the chef had used seasonal brussels sprouts, slightly caramelized parsley root and crunchy endive.

Dark chocolate soufflé $16

On the recommendation of a family member, I ordered the specialty dark chocolate soufflé for dessert. After presenting me with the dish, my server deftly poured a warm caramel sauce into the ramekin. I promptly dug in, enjoying the light, fluffy and totally chocolate-y soufflé.

Dovetail is certainly one of the finest eateries on the Upper West Side. The space is subdued and soothing, with white linens, muted tones and the convivial buzz of glasses clinking and cutlery on china.

The food is excellent. Chef John Fraser takes his pick of fresh, seasonal ingredients and turns them, with aplomb, into delicious, thoughtful dishes for picky diners. He doesn’t have a point to prove, just a desire to create thoroughly enjoyable cuisine.

As a note, Dovetail is on the more formal side (consider it the Upper West Side’s equivalent to Café Boulud on the Upper East).

Dovetail

103 W. 77^th St.

212-362-3800

#14 Minetta Tavern Shirred eggs and shaved black truffles...

Fri, 12 Oct 2012 12:25:00 -0400

Shirred eggs and shaved black truffles $19

Black label burger $26

Coconut cake $9

#14 Minetta Tavern

Shirred eggs and shaved black truffles $19

Saturday was a special day, as the chef had switched out the standard trumpet mushrooms for truffles. S. and I are big fans of black truffles, so we didn’t bother to ask why the substitution had occurred. We just licked our lips and eagerly awaited our order…

Shirred eggs is another way of saying baked eggs. These were prepared with cheese but came out a little bit too runny (S. suggested that they could have been cooked for a bit longer). We also lamented that the dish was only garnished with shaved black truffles. It would have been great if these had been fully incorporated.

Note: These are very similar to eggs en cocotte but cooked without water.

Black label burger $26

Apparently one of the most celebrated burgers in the city, I was eager to try this guy out. Prepared from a selection of prime dry-aged beef cuts, the patty was tender and smoky. There were sweet and smooth caramelized onions on top and I ordered a slice of cheddar cheese, as well. To tell the truth, I didn’t quite understand what the hype was about. Sure, the meat is good but the bun was kind of soggy and the onions were overloaded. Plus, those “pommes frites” were pretty plain. In fact, I found them salty and over-fried. Moreover, at $26, it’s pretty pricey (especially considering that you can get an excellent burger at The Spotted Pig for only $20).

Coconut cake $9

To round off our meal, we opted to share a small dessert. The coconut cake is supposedly a classic but we weren’t super impressed. The sponge was dense and dry, interspersed with sweet and creamy layers of coconut icing. The outside was covered in flakes of dried coconut. Ok.

Frankly, I have NO idea how Minetta Tavern managed to soar through the list of New York’s best restaurants, bypassing places like The Modern, Aldea and other excellent establishments on its way to the top. Sure, I get it. The décor is fun and there’s a cool, speakeasy-esque vibe. But, I mean, really? Neither S. nor I could figure out what made this place so special. On other occasions, when we’ve tried to go for dinner, the staff have been brusque, making it even more difficult to find a table. On some nights, there’s even a bouncer outside, which feels totally unnecessary. I don’t imagine any of those punters are clamoring to get in on account of the food.

For those who haven’t seen it, Minetta is a small, somewhat cramped space with low ceilings, checkerboard floors, an old wooden bars and red leather banquettes. You enter through a paneled door, making your way past thick red velvet curtains to find the hostess. The aesthetic evokes the speakeasies of old and there are even original framed prints on the wall.

Overall, I’d laud restaurant impresario Keith McNally (owner of Balthazar) for creating a fun, clubby establishment that offers a fun dining experience. However, speakeasy stylings and a $26 burger do not an excellent restaurant make.

Minetta Tavern

113 MacDougal St.

212-475-3850

#100 RedFarm Shrimp and snow pea leaf dumplings $19 These were...

Thu, 11 Oct 2012 12:18:00 -0400

Shrimp and snow pea leaf dumplings $19

Smoked cucumbers $6

Barbequed “Black Foot” Berkshire pork belly $15.50

Braised oxtail, Japanese pumpkin and okra $24

Sautéed black cod with black bean and Thai basil $32

Diced lamb with Chinese broccoli and white asparagus $28

#100 RedFarm

Shrimp and snow pea leaf dumplings $19

These were the best part of our meal. Inside a light, delicate skin was smooth, buttery shrimp with crisp snow pea leaf. The dainty parcels melted in our mouths, yielding wonderfully clean and fresh flavors.

Smoked cucumbers $6

Crunchy marinated cucumbers muddled with spicy red chili and white and black sesame seeds. These guys had a nice, smoky taste alongside a sharp hit of vinegar. An interesting hybrid of American pickles with Asian spice and seeds.

Barbequed “Black Foot” Berkshire pork belly $15.50

First off, I’m not quite sure why they didn’t round up/down with the whole 50 cents thing but whatever. The chef grilled the pork enough to get a nice smoky char but leave it tender on the inside. He then cut it into thick, juicy slices and garnished it with red pepper and a sweet sauce. One thing I particularly enjoyed was the spicy arugula on either side of the plate. It was the perfect antidote to the sweet, smoky pork (almost like ginger is to sushi).

Braised oxtail, Japanese pumpkin and okra $24

This was one of the daily specials, and we were glad we ordered it. Served in a heavy ceramic urn, the meat (on the bone, of course) was beautifully tender. There were okra, leeks, onions and yummy chunks of sweet and slightly crunchy Japanese pumpkin, which is similar to but sweeter than butternut squash. All marinated in a hearty sauce and served with flatbread.

Sautéed black cod with black bean and Thai basil $32

Black cod is a classic option so we decided to check this version out. Buried under crunchy snow peas, onion and pepper was a big piece of crumbly black cod. This was all covered in a mild black bean sauce. Unfortunately, this dish just wasn’t that interesting. It simply tasted like a higher quality version of whatever’s on offer at China Fun. Perhaps that’s what the chef was going for, but we weren’t wowed.

Diced lamb with Chinese broccoli and white asparagus $28

By the time this dish came out, our table was absolutely swamped! Although it looked appetizing, the lamb was pretty disappointing. The meat was tough and the sauce overpowering. Of course, there were the requisite vegetables (peppers, broccoli, etc.), along with a generous helping of garlic. However, it seemed strange to add in white asparagus, as the vegetable has such a delicate and easily overpowered flavor. If anything, I would have gone for heartier green asparagus.

RedFarm is a curious stop on the New York restaurant circuit. It’s certainly garnered a lot of praise and it’s always full of smiling, chatty diners. On our visit, the place was buzzing but the hostess managed to squeeze us in. (As a funny aside, you have to walk through an electric sliding door to enter the restaurant. It feels very Japanese.) The space is small but bright, with a long communal table surrounded by smaller booths. The staff are super friendly, eagerly offering suggestions as to their favorite dishes. It’s a warm welcome to the place and very much appreciated.

As far as the food, we had mixed feelings. The cucumbers weren’t the best but we were dazzled by the delicious, delicate dumplings. Our server mentioned that these were the restaurant’s most impressive items, and he wasn’t wrong. They were wonderfully light but full with interesting flavors. As the meal continued, however, we were less impressed by the cuisine. There were a couple misses for the main dishes. Maybe they just didn’t live up to the hype.

RedFarm

529 Hudson St.

212-792-9700

#47 The Little Owl Whole wheat pancakes $8 A perfect stack of...

Tue, 09 Oct 2012 14:03:00 -0400

Whole wheat pancakes $8

Beignets (normally $8 for 4)

#47 The Little Owl

Whole wheat pancakes $8

A perfect stack of moist, fluffy pancakes. In this case, the batter was made from denser whole wheat, along with flavorful almond flour, which made these a little bit heartier than other pancakes. When they arrived, I eagerly covered them with sticky, sweet maple syrup. However, my qualm with this dish was the lack of berries. The menu promised that it was served with “seasonal berries” but there were only about 6 blueberries on the plate and a small, sliced strawberry. Perhaps it could have done with a tasty blueberry compote on the side, instead.

Beignets (normally $8 for 4)

The kitchen very kindly sent out one of these dense donuts for me to try. The chef had covered the big, sugary parcel with a sweet raspberry sauce and then placed it on a bed of pure Nutella. While I liked the donut, I found myself scraping off the raspberry sauce, which tasted pretty synthetic. Perhaps this dish would be better without the sauce – letting the yummy beignets speak for themselves.

While my meal at The Little Owl was small, I got a pretty good feel for the place. First off, it’s pretty tiny. There are only 5 seats at the bar and the tiny tables are crammed together, so it can get pretty loud. While some might find this frustrating, there’s a warm, cozy tone, that makes you instantly feel like a local. The staff hurry about their business (a little bit overstretched but still friendly), bringing out tasty dishes.

Unfortunately, the brunch menu doesn’t show of the talents of chef Joey Campanaro (though, their house-marinated, thick-cut bacon is awesome). My chatty server said that the pork chop is a must. The other items on the menu look delicious, so I’m looking forward to going back. As a note, be prepared to wait. The good news is that there are some cute benches outside to hang out on and plenty of window shopping in the area.

The Little Owl

90 Bedford St.

212-741-4695

#93 Empellón Swordfish cerviche with capers and salsa Veracruz...

Tue, 02 Oct 2012 12:38:00 -0400

Swordfish cerviche with capers and salsa Veracruz $14

Fried green tomato tacos $14

Hen of the woods tacos $24

#93 Empellón

Swordfish cerviche with capers and salsa Veracruz $14

Big, meaty chunks of tender swordfish marinated in mild citrus juice, muddled with a generous helping of sharp capers, thinly sliced green chilies and fresh cilantro. This dish was totally undermined, however, by the strange the sauce. The salsa Veracruz, weirdly, tasted just like a classic pomodoro. It was a tomato base, light, mild, slightly sweet and accented with olive notes – totally out of place for a supposedly sharp cerviche.

Fried green tomato tacos (two) $14

These two tacos were the most unimpressive item during dinner. The hefty slices of tomato were so deeply fried that it eviscerated any soft, sweet tastes of the fruit. Instead, it became a thick shell of salty, bready crust with a bland, gooey inside. This was served with fiery pasilla oxaqueña chili and a somewhat tasteless macadamia nut hummus. As a garnish, the tacos were haphazardly garnished with a handful of cilantro.

Hen of the woods tacos (three) $24

Hen of the woods are my favorite kind of mushrooms. They are intense, earthy with a wonderful, slightly chewy texture and a deep flavor. In this case, the mushrooms were perfectly cooked but overwhelmed by all the other stuff on the plate. A thick, sticky, cloying tomatillo-chipotle salsa, globs of bland queso blanco and crunchy strands of zucchini. To both our minds, this dish would have been perfect with just the mushrooms alone. They’re fantastically fragrant and can easily speak for themselves.

We walked away from our meal at Empellón thoroughly unimpressed. The space itself feel cheap and tired. Loud, disco beats, dreary furniture, with tables so close together that you’re practically eating dinner with your neighbor. (This seems just greedy on the restaurant’s behalf – surely diners deserve a bit of space!?) The staff are somewhat brusque and aren’t best equipped to answer all your questions.

The food is really quite unremarkable. All our dishes, including the chips and salsa (that we had to pay for!), were either bland or bad. The chef seems eager to jumble flavors together, hoping that something good will come of it. Swordfish with chili, tomato, citrus, cilantro? Mushrooms with zucchini, cheese, sauce? Why not let the ingredients speak for themselves? I’m sure they’ll do an elegant job.

Skip Empellón. You’re not missing much.

Empellón

230 W. 4^th St.

212-367-0999

#77 Sorella Roasted beet & shaved fennel salad $14 Bright,...

Mon, 01 Oct 2012 14:43:00 -0400

Roasted beet & shaved fennel salad $14

Little gem and sweet corn salad $15

Ricotta gnocchi $23

Risotto $18

Gelati $8

#77 Sorella

Roasted beet & shaved fennel salad $14

Bright, crunchy haricots verts combined with thin shavings of crisp fennel and small, delicate roasted beets. Muddled with chunks of pistachio and slices of spicy serrano pepper. Dressed in a light and creamy tonnato sauce.

Little gem and sweet corn salad $15

A friend and I described this dish as a tasty hybrid of a classic cesar salad and good ol’ Southern corn. Big, crunchy leaves of little gem lettuce, mixed with smooth ricotta salata, fluffy cornbread and covered with shavings of Grana cheese. Served with an unusual and interesting crème fraîche –chili dressing. Personally, I found this dish overwhelmingly heavy but both my dining companion and my friend enjoyed it.

Ricotta gnocchi $23

This was one of the daily specials when we dined at Sorella. The gnocchi were absolutely perfect; small doughy balls, oozing with rich, creamy ricotta. Each perfectly sized piece bursting with gooey cheese and smooth flavors. Served with slivers of tender braised pork, rich slow roasted tomatoes and diced Caselvetrano olives (incidentally, the folks at Frankies 457 are also fans of these olives). Garnished with a generous serving of Grana Padano cheese.

Risotto $18

A pleasant portion of hearty homemade risotto. The pasta was al dente (perhaps a bit too much so for my dining companion), mixed with intense porcini mushrooms and salty guanciale, which is an unsmoked Italian bacon, often prepared with pig’s cheeks of jowl. Smothered with delicious pecorino oro antico cheese.

Gelati $8

To finish, we opted for three scoops of Sorella’s incredible-sounding gelati.

- Chunky Sorella: Salted caramel gelato flecked with chocolate-covered pretzels and punctuated with an intense fudge swirl. Definitely our favorite of the three.

- Bananimal: Banana gelato muddled with caramel-covered animal crackers and a sweet caramel swirl.

- Buttercrunch: Brown sugar gelato with buttercrunch toffee and a smooth milk chocolate ganache. This was our least favorite option, as we found the buttercrunch ice cream a bit bland.

While I’d been meaning to eat at Sorella for sometime, I pushed it to the top of my list on a recommendation from a friend. To be totally honest, I’m very glad I did. Push past the discreet looking door on Allen street to first enter into a bar space with high tables and then into a larger dining room. The space is simple but warm, with thick wooden tables, comfortable felt-covered chairs and small tea lights dotted around the restaurant. The servers, who are chatty and knowledgeable, work with a refreshing enthusiasm, proudly showing their own appreciation of the food available.

As for the cuisine, chef Emma Hearst and her partner Sarah Krathen have drawn on their experiences in Piedmont, Italy to create an elegant and authentic menu full of tasty, cheesy treats. We really did enjoy all of our savory dishes, marveling at the jovial flavors. Where Sorella really disappoints, however, is in the dessert department. All of the dishes available sound delicious but sadly overpromise. While they aren’t pictured, we had a ‘bicerin’ (a pot de crème of sorts, with espresso fudge and chocolate pudding garnished with soft whipped cream) and a tartelette (a small tart with almond cream, marinated cherries and a scoop of cherry-cream gelato). Both of these were pretty bland.

With that in mind, definitely head to Sorella to check out the awesome savory dishes but be sure to skip dessert. You won’t regret it!

Sorella

95 Allen St.

212-274-9595

#87 Sushi Azabu Fluke Mild, creamy fluke with a light soy...

Tue, 25 Sep 2012 13:41:00 -0400

Fluke

Japanese red snapper

Kanpachi

Japanese bonito

King salmon

Scottish salmon

Seared Scottish salmon

Shrimp

Scallop with yuzu zest

Squash roll $5

#87 Sushi Azabu

Fluke

Mild, creamy fluke with a light soy glaze.

Japanese red snapper

Interestingly, this fish is considered a symbol of good luck in Japan and is thus the most prestigious and delicious of all snappers.

Kanpachi

Otherwise known as amberjack, this fish derives its name from a figure of eight pattern it develops during infancy. At an early stage this symbol appears on the middle of its head, hence the name kanpachi or “center eight.”

Japanese bonito

Buttery fish garnished with a small spoonful of spicy ginger.

King salmon

This was my favorite piece of salmon. Slightly deeper, richer flavors than the other varietals.

Scottish salmon

While more buttery, I also found this a little more oily that the king salmon.

Seared Scottish salmon

An interesting piece of nigiri. The fish had been lightly seared with a blowtorch, making it sweeter but also a tad fishier.

Shrimp

Simple, fresh and tasty.

Scallop

This juicy piece of shellfish was glazed with lemon juice, salt and a perfect hint of citrus-y yuzu zest.

Squash roll $5

My server recommended this item. Tart, crunchy home-pickled squash wrapped in rice and nori. Clean, classic and uncomplicated.

In Tribeca, tucked underneath the already unassuming Greenwich Grill, is this little jewel box of a sushi restaurant. The small, subterranean space has a long sushi bar (staffed by talented chefs) and a handful of modest tables. The deft staff courtesly accommodate your needs and desires, gently explaining their favorite options on the menu and what you might best enjoy.

As for the food, the sushi is impressive. (One curiosity was that I was served a bowl of miso soup at the end of the meal. I learnt that this is quite common but seems to vary depending on the type of soup - mine had a prawn.) The fish is obviously extremely high quality. I was told that 70% of the fish is flown in from Japan daily, the remaining 30% is sourced from various places, including North America. The options are simple and very toned down, which can be refreshing (this definitely isn’t Sushi of Gari). If you’re in Tribeca, definitely stop by for some excellent sushi. And, yes, you can get all these pieces of sushi – save the squash rolls – for $35.

Sushi Azabu

428 Greenwich St.

212-274-0428

#60 Scarpetta Creamy polenta $18 (not pictured) This dish was...

Fri, 21 Sep 2012 12:35:00 -0400

Tajarin with veal sweetbreads, zucchini and jalapeño $25

Black tagliolini with seafood ragu $28

Warm rhubarb tart $12

#60 Scarpetta

Creamy polenta $18 (not pictured)

This dish was rather elegantly prepared. Our server presented us with a small bowl of buttery polenta and slowly covered it with a rich, mushroom sauce. The polenta itself was velvety smooth, warm mouthfuls of truffle-infused goodness. The sauce was a flavorful fricasse of intense chanterelle mushrooms. A rich, hearty and delicious way to begin our meal.

Tajarin $25

This appealing dish definitely delivered on its promises. Long strands of hearty homemade pasta in a creamy sauce. Tender morsels of veal sweetbreads, shreds of crunchy zucchini and thin slivers of spicy jalapeño pepper.

Black tagliolini $28

A hefty serving of homemade tagliolini. Served in a flavorful seafood ragout made of mussels, calamari, shrimp and sea urchin. Muddled with crunchy basil breadcrumbs

Warm rhubarb tart $12

Rhubarb is always a special ingredient for me. I remember learning about the plant (and its poison) at primary school. Ever since I found that out, it’s held a special allure. Given that I was looking for something light and unusual, I ordered the rhubarb tart.

The base was a crumbly, buttery biscuit. Slightly crisp but moist. The spears of tart rhubarb on top were a bit chewy but pleasant. The candied macadamia nuts, however, just didn’t work. They were cumbersome to eat, falling all over the plate. Plus, they were too sweet. Instead, it might have been interesting to add almond paste into the base, which would have added smooth nutty flavors in a more diner-friendly manner. The basil yoghurt on the side was interesting but was a bit too strong. Instead, I would have suggested a crème fraiche.

Having eaten at Scarpetta once, I was excited to return and confirm/dismiss my prior conclusions. Previously, the pasta was excellent but the main courses underwhelmed. With this in mind, we decided to stick mainly with pasta and order a couple additional dishes. The polenta was delicious and, as before, the pasta was wonderful. Interesting, creative options that were rich and flavorful. The dessert, however, was unimpressive.

The dining room is a little awkward. Lodged in the back of the restaurant, it’s kind of boxy. Seats around the edges with a lot of smaller tables in the middle. In fact, despite the dim lighting and leather banquettes, the whole thing is a little bit corporate. Overall, Scarpetta has great pasta and decent food but it’s not the most interesting place to eat.

Scarpetta

355 W. 14^th St.

212-691-0555

#8 Daniel Lightly fried anchovies with tofu Inside a thin,...

Mon, 17 Sep 2012 12:41:00 -0400

Lightly fried anchovies with tofu

Maine lobster salad with poached peaches

Slow baked, thinly sliced striped bass

Roasted veal tenderloin with artichoke barigoule

Milk chocolate dacquoise

Kenyan coffee ganache

#8 Daniel

Lightly fried anchovies with tofu

Inside a thin, crunchy shell were crisp anchovies. Served on a manicured bed of tabouleh with small chunks of mild, smooth tofu and tart pickled cucumber.

Maine lobster salad with poached peaches

Morsels of creamy lobster dressed in a delicate lemon verbena oil vinaigrette. Interspersed with thin slices of sweet poached peaches, which brought bright notes to the dish. Served with green almond and sprigs of slightly sour purslane.

Slow baked, thinly sliced striped bass

What initially looked like vitello tonnato was actually a huge portion of citrus-infused striped bass. The fish was served with a refreshing cucumber daikon salad and peppered with salty lump fish caviar. Dressed with a wonderful wild spearmint and kaffir lime gremolata.

Roasted veal tenderloin with artichoke barigoule

This was actually a trio of veal, consisting of three delicious types of meat on a single plate. Even more elegantly, after serving us, our server server deftly poured a red wine glaze to the dish. Moving from bottom to top:

- A piece of incredibly tender roasted veal tenderloin. Served on a creamy artichoke barigoule (a creamy, olive oil-infused stew).

- Delicious braised veal cheeks with sweet and spicy jalapeño chutney. An interesting and harmonious blend of flavors.

- Incredibly rich, crispy sweet breads on a puree of glazed pattypan squash and French beans.

Milk chocolate dacquoise

This was probably one of the most pleasing desserts I’ve had so far (both in terms of aesthetic and flavor). On the left, intense chocolaty dacquoise sandwiched between two delicate pieces of chocolate. As I learnt, a dacquoise is a delicious mixture of almond, hazelnut and rich cream. It takes its name from the feminine form of “dacquois,” meaning “of Dax,” a tiny town in the south of France. On top, a velvety chocolate parfait, garnished with thin toffee tuile and a flake of gold. Served with a quenelle of perfect salted caramel ice cream.

Kenyan coffee ganache

Another exquisite way to finish off a meal. Layers of dark chocolate crémeux, wonderful chocolate sable and light rice crispy. Polished off with cream and served with coffee ice cream.

After we’d finished our desserts, then our petits fours and then, finally, the light and fluffy madeleines, we were the picture of contentment. All of us, sitting around our comfortable table, smiling and remarking on just how much we’d enjoyed our meal.

In addition to the food, one thing that’s wonderful about Daniel is the service. The talented team are attentive yet discreet and, should you want to know more about your food, they’re informed enough to guide you through each item’s fascinating culinary voyage. Another plus is that Chef Daniel Boulud lives upstairs, which means he’s frequently in the kitchen. During our dinner, we even had the chance to meet him. (What can I say? I was just a tad starstruck).

Given the quality of the food and the service, the 3-course menu at $108 per person is really quite reasonable. As a note, there’s also an intimate bar area that’s more casual and has an à la carte menu. It’s great to stop by and enjoy delicious food without getting aggressive with your credit card.

Daniel

60 E. 65^th St.

212-288-0033

#39 Soto Fluke ponzu $10 Thinly sliced fluke garnished with...

Tue, 11 Sep 2012 15:20:00 -0400

Fluke ponzu $10

Cyu toro tartare $25

Scallop and fluke shisho agedashi $14

Botan ebi (spotted prawn from Canada) $5

Sakura masu (Australian sea trout) $6

Saba (Norwegian mackerel) $5

#39 Soto

Fluke ponzu $10

Thinly sliced fluke garnished with chive, minty shisho leaf, bright ginger shoots and crunchy scallion. Served in a bowl of tart mizore ponzu sauce (which I found somewhat overpowering).

Cyu toro tartare $25

Chopped meat from the most creamy, tender part of the famous big eye tuna. Served with a buttery avocado coulis and garnished with salty caviar, chive and shredded seaweed. Served in a chilled sesame ponzu sauce.

Scallop and fluke shisho agedashi $14

Large morsels of creamy scallop and fluke wrapped in shisho leaf and lightly fried. Nice and crunchy on the outside but smooth and tender on the inside. Served in a spicy, wasabi-infused dashi broth.

Sushi

- Botan ebi: Spotted prawn from Canada with a miso glaze ($5)

- Sakura masu: Australian sea trout ($6)

- Saba: Norwegian mackerel ($5)

Located on 6^th avenue but with little frontage and no discernable sign, it’s easy to miss Soto. However, once you step through the door and enter the restaurant, you find yourself in a sleek, simple dining room. There’s a long sushi counter, as well as small tables. Generally, the restaurant has a soothing atmosphere.

The food is good. Small portions, precise, perhaps even prissy. It’s also very salty and expensive. With so many excellent Japanese options in the city, I’d suggest holding off on Soto. It’s a little bit too minimalist for my taste.

Soto

357 6^th Ave.

212-414-3088

#66 Red Rooster Harlem Catfish and grits $26 Mild, flaky catfish...

Fri, 07 Sep 2012 12:28:00 -0400

Catfish and grits $26

Fried yard bird $26

#66 Red Rooster Harlem

Catfish and grits $26

Mild, flaky catfish mixed on a bed of creamy grits. Muddled with small chunks of spicy, meaty Spanish chorizo and sharp caper berries. Mixed with tomato, red cabbage and garnished with a slice of lemon, this was a zesty, spicy (if somewhat overwhelming) dish.

Fried yard bird $26

Two huge pieces of lightly fried chicken breast and thigh. Inside the thin, crunchy batter was tender, wonderfully moist, dark meat. Placed on a bed of fluffy, buttery mashed potatoes covered in rich white mace gravy and garnished with a portion of sweet bread and butter pickles. For novelty (and flavor), the dish is served with a big steel shaker full of spices for you to use as preferred.

Red Rooster is a curious fixture on the New York culinary scene. Opened in mid 2011 on 125^th street, the restaurant garnered significant press coverage, first because of its location and second because of its chef (the infamous Marcus Samuelsson). Since then, it’s caused a hefty amount of controversy. Chef Eddie Huang, for instance, penned a column critiquing Samuelsson for failing to consider the cultural nuances of the local area. There will certainly be more questions about Red Rooster in the future.

As far as the food, we found it rather unimpressive. We’d gone ahead and ordered the corn bread, but weren’t hugely impressed. The catfish and grits was a confused jumble of flavors. The yard bird, while tasty, wasn’t exactly inspiring. There are plenty of other fine fried chicken places in New York, so we weren’t sure what made Red Rooster special.

The space itself is also kind of cheesy. Overdesigned, crowded and aggressively lit, the restaurant feels more like an amusement ride than a good restaurant. There’s a token deli counter by the front door and then a long bar that bisects the cavernous space. A little bit contrived for my tastes.

Either way, I wouldn’t recommend visiting Red Rooster. It’s gimmicky, modish and, most importantly, the food really isn’t that good.

Red Rooster Harlem

310 Lenox Ave.

212-792-9001

#81 Casa Lever Carciofi $20 Tart, thinly sliced artichokes on a...

Thu, 06 Sep 2012 12:09:00 -0400

Carciofi $20

Caprese $21

Salmone $39

Baccala $38

Arrabbiata $21

Key lime cheesecake $12

Gianduia $12

#81 Casa Lever

Carciofi $20

Tart, thinly sliced artichokes on a vast bed of crunchy, bitter baby arugula. Tossed in a light balsamic vinaigrette (a little bit overdressed) and garnished with shavings of intense parmesan. This salad would have been a lot more interesting if they had adjusted the portions to showcase the artichoke, rather than smother it with boatloads of boring arugula.

Caprese $21

A classic combination of sweet, blood red kumato tomatoes next to morsels of creamy mozzarella di bufala. (Kumatos are known for their higher fructose content and sweet flavor.) Accented with fresh green pesto.

Salmone $39

A big wild salmon steak on a bed of mild organic Swiss chard served with a caper lemon sauce. The salmon itself had been nicely cooked (we ordered it to be prepared per the chef’s recommendation), slightly browned on the outside but still pink and tender on the inside. Underneath, a heap of steamed spinach, which was a bit too soggy, flecked with chili flakes. The chard was pleasantly prepared but felt a bit disjointed in the context of the dish. Plated with tart capers and bright lemon zest.

Baccala $38

A vast fillet of creamy cod, crusted in thin slices of crispy potato. Served in a bowl of creamy sauce with diced black olives, crunchy pine nuts and sharp capers. Unfortunately, this dish looked better than it tasted. The flavors were jumbled together and, to my mind, the cod was just too huge.

Arrabbiata $21

This classic pasta dish was excellently executed. Thick threads of al dente pasta covered in a spicy arrabiatta sauce. Authentic and enjoyable.

Key lime cheesecake $12

Although this dessert was very sweet and a bit too dense, we still enjoyed it. The cake was composed of two layers: a more gooey, creamy top and a denser, floury base. The top was flecked with lime rind and infused with tart, bright juice. Plated with a small scoop of coconut gelato and a handful of crushed almonds.

Gianduia $12

Our server insisted we order this option, explaining that it was the restaurant’s most popular dessert. We can certainly see why. Thin layers of moist hazelnut sponge on crisp hazelnut wafer, interspersed with layers of light, vibrant hazelnut cream and, finally, topped with hazelnut-infused gianduia chocolate. Very decadent and incredibly tasty.

When we ate at Casa Lever, we had the pleasure of sitting in their outdoor courtyard. While a bit noisy (they were playing loud euro-trashy music), we enjoyed the opportunity to dine en plein air. The food was so-so: Hackneyed modern Italian fare, which failed to delight or impress. Instead, we were commenting on the simple starters, the over-salted (and over-sized) fish and the excessively sweet desserts.

The interior (decorated like a 1960s space pod and peppered with Warhols) and the outdoor terrace are fun, but an excellent restaurant these do not make. Stop by for lunch if you’re working in the area but not worth a long journey uptown.

Casa Lever

390 Park Ave.

212-888-2700

#94 Frankies Spuntino 457 Crostini $8 Of the six options...

Mon, 27 Aug 2012 11:50:00 -0400

Crostini $8

Marinated olives $5, Charred cauliflower $6

Sweet potato and sage ravioli $16

Braised octopus with dandelion greens $14

Vanilla bean crème brûlée $8

Tiramisu $9

#94 Frankies Spuntino 457

Crostini $8

Of the six options available, we selected two. On the left, a big scoop of gooey cremini mushroom infused with intense truffle oil and garnished with a big helping of grated parmesan. Next to it was a wonderfully moist, spicy eggplant caponata. Both were served on thick slices of crunchy, toasted bread.

Marinated olives $5, Charred cauliflower $6

We ordered a big bowl of salty mixed olives and then small portion of grilled cauliflower. The delicate florets had been covered in earthy olive oil and then cooked till they were slightly crunchy around the edges and lightly charred.

Sweet potato and sage ravioli $16

We weren’t sure what to make of this dish. The tender ravioli were filled with slightly sugary sweet potato but balanced with savory, peppery sage. However, these flavorful parcels were served in a watery parmesan broth, which made everything kind of soggy and, overall, seemed to confuse the dish. Instead, we would have preferred the pasta alone, without the distraction of a bland broth.

Braised octopus with dandelion greens $14

This big bowl of salad was rather disappointing. From the name, we expected a big serving of tender octopus with a small portion of dandelion greens. Instead, it was the other way around. A vast portion of bitter greens with a couple small morsels of octopus mixed in. Most of the time, I was rummaging through the leaves, hunting for small bites of the succulent seafood. All of this was tossed in a Castelvetrano vinaigrette, which is named after the Sicilian town where the owners own a brand of spicy olive oil. Unfortunately, the salad was overdressed, which further overpowered the delicate flavors of the soft and sweet octopus. Disappointing.

Vanilla bean crème brûlée $8

A pleasant but not particularly imaginative dish. Underneath the crackly shell was luxurious, vanilla-infused cream. Though, we found the top layer of sugar too thick and the cream too stodgy.

Tiramisu $9

Without a doubt, one of my favorite desserts, Tiramisu is a hard dish to get right. The name means “pick me up,” which is considered to metaphorically mean, “make me happy.” It is normally made of ladyfingers dipped in coffee, layered with a light mixture of egg yolks, mascarpone cheese, liquor and cocoa.

At Frankies, we found the tiramisu was a bit too heavy and creamy. Coffee notes came through but weren’t quite strong enough bring the punch one hopes for. Plus, we missed the potent hits of coffee liqueur. This version wasn’t bad but we’ve certainly had better.

Overall, the food as Frankies is good but neither exciting nor excellent. We enjoyed the initial crostini very much, so much so that we ordered another cremini mushroom later in our meal. Otherwise, Chefs Frank Castronovo and Frank Falcinelli (thus, the name) present pleasant, generously portioned dishes that, unfortunately, fail to deliver on their promises. The octopus salad was disappointingly lacking in octopus, the attractive sounding pasta was ruined by its own attempt at complexity and the desserts were, quite frankly, rather uninspired.

While our server was very friendly, we have to call out the incredibly slow kitchen. It took us about 45 minutes to receive our two crostini, which surely must have been pre-prepared. After that, there was more waiting, as we sat hungrily eyeing up other diners, wondering whether our food would be next. It’s worth noting that the restaurant does have a very small kitchen but, to my mind, that’s no excuse.

On the other hand, Frankies is redeemed by its beautiful garden. Walk through the cozy restaurant and you’ll come out onto a vast gravel garden. There are wooden tables with candles, all underneath a big awning with strings of lightbulbs. It’s a really wonderful place to sit outside and enjoy a meal, especially on a balmy summer night. As long as you don’t expect incredible things from the kitchen, you’ll have a great evening. Plus, you get the pleasure of Brooklyn prices!

Frankies Spuntino 457

457 Court St.

718-403-0033

#31 Seäsonal Restaurant and Weinbar Tafelspitz $28 A true...

Thu, 23 Aug 2012 12:47:00 -0400

Tafelspitz $28

Apfelstrudel $10

#31 Seäsonal Restaurant and Weinbar

Tafelspitz $28

A true Austrian classic, tafelspitz, meaning literally “tip” (of meat), is boiled beef in a Viennese-style broth. The chef had used hearty shoulder meat and prepared it in a subtle, smoky oxtail consommé, with baby carrots and leeks. The beef was accompanied by three sauces: tart creamy horseradish, mild apple and gooey spinach. It was also served with two crunchy potato rösti (roughly grated potato that had been fried).

This dish had been excellently prepared. The meat was tender, the light broth clean yet flavorful and the accompaniments perfectly prepared. To my mind, it was faultless (though still very heavy).

Apfelstrudel $10

For dessert, I was advised that the only option without alcohol was the apple strudel. (The kirschtorte – a deconstruction of the traditional chocolate cake also looked delicious but included a strong liqueur.)

When it arrived, this strudel was wonderfully fragrant, with beautiful hits of cinnamon. Wrapped inside the crumbly, crunchy filo pastry shell was a big helping of hot, sweet and slightly tart granny smith apple mixed with raisins. This tidy package was lightly dusted with icing sugar. It was served with simple vanilla ice cream on a bed of chocolate crumbs.

Together, Chefs Wolfgang Ban and Eduard Frauneder are a formidable pair. They put out impeccable, authentic Austrian foods with a modern twist. Even in the case of the tafelspitz, which is an incredibly hearty dish, they found a way to make it light and fresh, while staying true to its roots. For fans of the cuisine, this is unquestionably one of the best places to go in the city.

Where the restaurant falters a little is in its space and also its service. While the small space is very tricky to work with (it’s like a long and narrow corridor), it could still do with a bit of freshening up. The furniture seems a little dated, which makes the environment a bit sterile. To make matters worse, the staff were brusque (perhaps because they were overstretched), pushing me to try additional dishes I clearly didn’t want.

Ultimately, I wouldn’t choose to go back to Seäsonal. The food is very good but, quite simply, I don’t find Austrian cuisine that tasty. It’s very heavy, using meat, cream or both. In addition, the space itself feels a lot cheaper than the quality of the food. They should opt for a more intimate, cozy vibe to really encourage people to feel at home and enjoy a solid, impressively prepared meal.

Seäsonal Restaurant and Weinbar

132 W. 58^th St.

212-957-5550

#33 Sushi of Gari Toro A thick piece of fatty toro tuna (taken...

Wed, 22 Aug 2012 11:27:00 -0400

Toro with daikon radish

Kanpachi with jalapeño sauce

Salmon

Black cod

Japanese mackerel with sesame-soy sauce

Lobster

Tuna tartare

Fluke with poached quail egg

Salmon with sautéed tomato

Chopped eel

#33 Sushi of Gari

Toro

A thick piece of fatty toro tuna (taken from the belly of the fish). Garnished with light, sweet and tart daikon radish. Perfectly dense, moist rice.

Kanpachi

It was interesting to note that, as the chef was preparing the kanpachi, he delicately and deftly scored the top side of the fish. He placed a small helping of jalapeño sauce on each morsel (that was composed of sweet, crunchy, spicy chunks of pepper) and added a light glaze to the top. Served on a bed of clear seaweed noodles.

Red snapper (not pictured)

A thick piece of snapper, crowned with crunchy pine nuts and a tiny helping of green salad, dressed in a sweet balsamic vinaigrette.

Salmon

A beautiful, thick piece of fatty, creamy salmon. Lightly glazed and placed on a bed of rice with a hit of potent wasabi.

Black cod

Served warm, serrated and slightly char-grilled. Brushed with a smooth miso glaze. The smoky hints were an unusual and delicious deviation from the traditional black cod dish.

Japanese mackerel

A perfect slice of fish, garnished with a helping of sweet, mushy sesame-soy sauce. Mild and delicate flavors but thoroughly enjoyable.

Lobster

Brilliant, buttery meat that simply melted in my mouth (the color was incredible, too). Served on a bed of rice and accented with a traditional hit of wasabi.

Tuna tartare

A mound of tiny chunks of tender tuna, garnished with a few crunchy pine nuts. Served on a crisp wafer base and a cube of rice. A very interesting item, both in terms of texture (I loved the combination of soft with hard) and taste.

Fluke

A tasty piece of fluke (otherwise known as summer flounder) underneath a rich, gooey poached quail egg. Accented with a perfectly subtle truffle sauce. Delicious, deep flavors.

Salmon

A piece of salmon with a hot sautéed tomato. Garnished with a simple sauce, flecked with black sesame seeds. Not my favorite, as the tomato rather overpowered the fish and the rice.

Eel

A sweet, gooey mouthful of chopped eel, garnished with crisp sesame seeds. Placed on top of a sliver of rich avocado. An interesting creation, if a bit gimmicky.

Without a doubt, the food at Sushi of Gari is excellent. I sat at the sushi counter and had the pleasure of watching the talented chefs create their delicious items. Sashimi, sushi and rolls, all meticulously prepared, using some of the highest quality fish available. Their efforts are readily detectable in the food. Almost item in my omakase menu (where the chef sends out his best suggestions until you tell him to stop) brought an intense burst of pleasure. The flavors were fascinating and innovative, making everything feel very special. Though, Sushi of Gari isn’t for purists, as the chef has options using other, more international ingredients like foie gras, for instance. It’s also expensive. My 11 pieces of sushi came to a grand total of $87.65.

If you’re looking to explore a little bit, this is a perfect place to indulge your culinary curiosity. You certainly won’t be disappointed.

Sushi of Gari (East Side)

402 E. 78^th St.

212-517-5340

#84 15 East Sushi $24 From left to right: fatty oh-toro...

Tue, 21 Aug 2012 13:22:00 -0400

Sushi $24

Wild salmon and yellow tail $32

Hot soba with duck and green onions $26

Cherry wood smoked duck $32

Almond tofu $9

Rice pudding tempura $10

#84 15 East

Sushi $24

From left to right: fatty oh-toro tuna, creamy, freshly caught Copper River salmon and botan ebi (or spot prawn). Our favorite was the slightly sweet, perfectly smooth spot prawn.

Wild salmon and yellow tail $32

Two large filets of tender fish. A piece of creamy wild salmon and rich, fatty yellow tail. Infused with saikyo-miso (a sweet, golden yellow miso) and soy-ikura butter. Garnished with salty roe and watercress.

Hot soba with duck and green onions $26

A big bowl of hot, handmade and handcut soba noodles served with fresh wasabi. We ordered the tender, rich duck breast and crisp green onions. With a bit of extra pepper, the flavorful broth was good but a bit too sweet for our liking.

Cherry wood smoked duck $32

Thinly sliced pieces of succulent, smoky duck breast, lightly charred but still rare. Served with mild shiitake mushrooms and sugary Satsuma yam (which is like a fluffier version of a sweet potato). Not hugely interesting but tasty nonetheless.

Almond tofu $9

Like a Japanese panna cotta, this dessert was a yummy slice of sweet cream. The homemade tofu was lightly infused with sake syrup and thinly sliced almond flakes. Plated with a scoop of sugary strawberry sorbet (which we found a bit sickly), fresh fruit and a crunchy almond tuille.

Rice pudding tempura $10

None of us had ever eaten rice pudding tempura before, so we were excited when our order eventually arrived. Inside a light, crunchy shell was a mild mouthful of creamy rice. While a bit bland and dry by itself, the rice pudding was quite tasty when mixed with the rich Dassai sake-kasu ice cream (Dassai is a premium brand of sake, while kasu this is the lees or rice solids left over after pressing the sake).

As we made our way through the various stages of our meal, we discussed the art of Japanese cuisine and the highly sensitive palate required to enjoy it. To be able to fully enjoy the nuanced flavors of sushi, one must gradually learn to identify and appreciate their subtleties. At 15 East, these skills are rather important and we, unfortunately, weren’t quite adequately equipped. First off, it’s important to note that this isn’t just a sushi bar; you can order appetizers and main courses, choosing from meat, fish and noodles. However, throughout our meal, the flavors seemed consistently muted, leaving us satisfied but not dazzled. The duck, for instance, was well-prepared but nothing remarkable, as was the fish. Though, the soba is very tasty and, depending on what you order with it, quite reasonable.

As for the space, you can choose between a clean sushi counter or step into a dimly lit, cozy dining room. It’s not too formal and good for a more intimate evening (the omakase menu is supposed to be incredible). Oh, and it’s also a bit expensive.

15 East

15 E. 15^th St.

212-647-0015