#87 Sushi Azabu

Fluke

Mild, creamy fluke with a light soy glaze.

Japanese red snapper

Interestingly, this fish is considered a symbol of good luck in Japan and is thus the most prestigious and delicious of all snappers.

Kanpachi

Otherwise known as amberjack, this fish derives its name from a figure of eight pattern it develops during infancy. At an early stage this symbol appears on the middle of its head, hence the name kanpachi or “center eight.”

Japanese bonito

Buttery fish garnished with a small spoonful of spicy ginger.

King salmon

This was my favorite piece of salmon. Slightly deeper, richer flavors than the other varietals.

Scottish salmon

While more buttery, I also found this a little more oily that the king salmon.

Seared Scottish salmon

An interesting piece of nigiri. The fish had been lightly seared with a blowtorch, making it sweeter but also a tad fishier.

Shrimp

Simple, fresh and tasty.

Scallop

This juicy piece of shellfish was glazed with lemon juice, salt and a perfect hint of citrus-y yuzu zest.

Squash roll $5

My server recommended this item. Tart, crunchy home-pickled squash wrapped in rice and nori. Clean, classic and uncomplicated.

In Tribeca, tucked underneath the already unassuming Greenwich Grill, is this little jewel box of a sushi restaurant. The small, subterranean space has a long sushi bar (staffed by talented chefs) and a handful of modest tables. The deft staff courtesly accommodate your needs and desires, gently explaining their favorite options on the menu and what you might best enjoy.

As for the food, the sushi is impressive. (One curiosity was that I was served a bowl of miso soup at the end of the meal. I learnt that this is quite common but seems to vary depending on the type of soup - mine had a prawn.) The fish is obviously extremely high quality. I was told that 70% of the fish is flown in from Japan daily, the remaining 30% is sourced from various places, including North America. The options are simple and very toned down, which can be refreshing (this definitely isn’t Sushi of Gari). If you’re in Tribeca, definitely stop by for some excellent sushi. And, yes, you can get all these pieces of sushi – save the squash rolls – for $35. 

Sushi Azabu

428 Greenwich St.

212-274-0428

#60 Scarpetta

Creamy polenta $18 (not pictured)

This dish was rather elegantly prepared. Our server presented us with a small bowl of buttery polenta and slowly covered it with a rich, mushroom sauce. The polenta itself was velvety smooth, warm mouthfuls of truffle-infused goodness. The sauce was a flavorful fricasse of intense chanterelle mushrooms. A rich, hearty and delicious way to begin our meal.

Tajarin $25

This appealing dish definitely delivered on its promises. Long strands of hearty homemade pasta in a creamy sauce. Tender morsels of veal sweetbreads, shreds of crunchy zucchini and thin slivers of spicy jalapeño pepper.

Black tagliolini $28

A hefty serving of homemade tagliolini. Served in a flavorful seafood ragout made of mussels, calamari, shrimp and sea urchin. Muddled with crunchy basil breadcrumbs

Warm rhubarb tart $12

Rhubarb is always a special ingredient for me. I remember learning about the plant (and its poison) at primary school. Ever since I found that out, it’s held a special allure. Given that I was looking for something light and unusual, I ordered the rhubarb tart.

The base was a crumbly, buttery biscuit. Slightly crisp but moist. The spears of tart rhubarb on top were a bit chewy but pleasant. The candied macadamia nuts, however, just didn’t work. They were cumbersome to eat, falling all over the plate. Plus, they were too sweet. Instead, it might have been interesting to add almond paste into the base, which would have added smooth nutty flavors in a more diner-friendly manner. The basil yoghurt on the side was interesting but was a bit too strong. Instead, I would have suggested a crème fraiche.

Having eaten at Scarpetta once, I was excited to return and confirm/dismiss my prior conclusions. Previously, the pasta was excellent but the main courses underwhelmed. With this in mind, we decided to stick mainly with pasta and order a couple additional dishes. The polenta was delicious and, as before, the pasta was wonderful. Interesting, creative options that were rich and flavorful. The dessert, however, was unimpressive.

The dining room is a little awkward. Lodged in the back of the restaurant, it’s kind of boxy. Seats around the edges with a lot of smaller tables in the middle. In fact, despite the dim lighting and leather banquettes, the whole thing is a little bit corporate. Overall, Scarpetta has great pasta and decent food but it’s not the most interesting place to eat.

Scarpetta

355 W. 14th St.

212-691-0555

#8 Daniel

Lightly fried anchovies with tofu

Inside a thin, crunchy shell were crisp anchovies. Served on a manicured bed of tabouleh with small chunks of mild, smooth tofu and tart pickled cucumber.

Maine lobster salad with poached peaches

Morsels of creamy lobster dressed in a delicate lemon verbena oil vinaigrette. Interspersed with thin slices of sweet poached peaches, which brought bright notes to the dish. Served with green almond and sprigs of slightly sour purslane.

Slow baked, thinly sliced striped bass

What initially looked like vitello tonnato was actually a huge portion of citrus-infused striped bass. The fish was served with a refreshing cucumber daikon salad and peppered with salty lump fish caviar. Dressed with a wonderful wild spearmint and kaffir lime gremolata.

Roasted veal tenderloin with artichoke barigoule

This was actually a trio of veal, consisting of three delicious types of meat on a single plate. Even more elegantly, after serving us, our server server deftly poured a red wine glaze to the dish. Moving from bottom to top:

- A piece of incredibly tender roasted veal tenderloin. Served on a creamy artichoke barigoule (a creamy, olive oil-infused stew).

- Delicious braised veal cheeks with sweet and spicy jalapeño chutney. An interesting and harmonious blend of flavors.

- Incredibly rich, crispy sweet breads on a puree of glazed pattypan squash and French beans.

Milk chocolate dacquoise

This was probably one of the most pleasing desserts I’ve had so far (both in terms of aesthetic and flavor). On the left, intense chocolaty dacquoise sandwiched between two delicate pieces of chocolate. As I learnt, a dacquoise is a delicious mixture of almond, hazelnut and rich cream. It takes its name from the feminine form of “dacquois,” meaning “of Dax,” a tiny town in the south of France. On top, a velvety chocolate parfait, garnished with thin toffee tuile and a flake of gold. Served with a quenelle of perfect salted caramel ice cream.

Kenyan coffee ganache

Another exquisite way to finish off a meal. Layers of dark chocolate crémeux, wonderful chocolate sable and light rice crispy. Polished off with cream and served with coffee ice cream.

After we’d finished our desserts, then our petits fours and then, finally, the light and fluffy madeleines, we were the picture of contentment. All of us, sitting around our comfortable table, smiling and remarking on just how much we’d enjoyed our meal.

In addition to the food, one thing that’s wonderful about Daniel is the service. The talented team are attentive yet discreet and, should you want to know more about your food, they’re informed enough to guide you through each item’s fascinating culinary voyage. Another plus is that Chef Daniel Boulud lives upstairs, which means he’s frequently in the kitchen. During our dinner, we even had the chance to meet him. (What can I say? I was just a tad starstruck).

Given the quality of the food and the service, the 3-course menu at $108 per person is really quite reasonable. As a note, there’s also an intimate bar area that’s more casual and has an à la carte menu. It’s great to stop by and enjoy delicious food without getting aggressive with your credit card.

Daniel

60 E. 65th St.

212-288-0033

#39 Soto

Fluke ponzu $10

Thinly sliced fluke garnished with chive, minty shisho leaf, bright ginger shoots and crunchy scallion. Served in a bowl of tart mizore ponzu sauce (which I found somewhat overpowering).

Cyu toro tartare $25

Chopped meat from the most creamy, tender part of the famous big eye tuna. Served with a buttery avocado coulis and garnished with salty caviar, chive and shredded seaweed. Served in a chilled sesame ponzu sauce.

Scallop and fluke shisho agedashi $14

Large morsels of creamy scallop and fluke wrapped in shisho leaf and lightly fried. Nice and crunchy on the outside but smooth and tender on the inside. Served in a spicy, wasabi-infused dashi broth.

Sushi

- Botan ebi: Spotted prawn from Canada with a miso glaze ($5)

- Sakura masu: Australian sea trout ($6)

- Saba: Norwegian mackerel ($5)

Located on 6th avenue but with little frontage and no discernable sign, it’s easy to miss Soto. However, once you step through the door and enter the restaurant, you find yourself in a sleek, simple dining room. There’s a long sushi counter, as well as small tables. Generally, the restaurant has a soothing atmosphere.

The food is good. Small portions, precise, perhaps even prissy. It’s also very salty and expensive. With so many excellent Japanese options in the city, I’d suggest holding off on Soto. It’s a little bit too minimalist for my taste.

Soto

357 6th Ave.

212-414-3088

#66 Red Rooster Harlem

Catfish and grits $26

Mild, flaky catfish mixed on a bed of creamy grits. Muddled with small chunks of spicy, meaty Spanish chorizo and sharp caper berries. Mixed with tomato, red cabbage and garnished with a slice of lemon, this was a zesty, spicy (if somewhat overwhelming) dish.

Fried yard bird $26

Two huge pieces of lightly fried chicken breast and thigh. Inside the thin, crunchy batter was tender, wonderfully moist, dark meat. Placed on a bed of fluffy, buttery mashed potatoes covered in rich white mace gravy and garnished with a portion of sweet bread and butter pickles. For novelty (and flavor), the dish is served with a big steel shaker full of spices for you to use as preferred.

Red Rooster is a curious fixture on the New York culinary scene. Opened in mid 2011 on 125th street, the restaurant garnered significant press coverage, first because of its location and second because of its chef (the infamous Marcus Samuelsson). Since then, it’s caused a hefty amount of controversy. Chef Eddie Huang, for instance, penned a column critiquing Samuelsson for failing to consider the cultural nuances of the local area. There will certainly be more questions about Red Rooster in the future.

As far as the food, we found it rather unimpressive. We’d gone ahead and ordered the corn bread, but weren’t hugely impressed. The catfish and grits was a confused jumble of flavors. The yard bird, while tasty, wasn’t exactly inspiring. There are plenty of other fine fried chicken places in New York, so we weren’t sure what made Red Rooster special.

The space itself is also kind of cheesy. Overdesigned, crowded and aggressively lit, the restaurant feels more like an amusement ride than a good restaurant. There’s a token deli counter by the front door and then a long bar that bisects the cavernous space. A little bit contrived for my tastes.

Either way, I wouldn’t recommend visiting Red Rooster. It’s gimmicky, modish and, most importantly, the food really isn’t that good.

Red Rooster Harlem

310 Lenox Ave.

212-792-9001

#81 Casa Lever

Carciofi $20

Tart, thinly sliced artichokes on a vast bed of crunchy, bitter baby arugula. Tossed in a light balsamic vinaigrette (a little bit overdressed) and garnished with shavings of intense parmesan. This salad would have been a lot more interesting if they had adjusted the portions to showcase the artichoke, rather than smother it with boatloads of boring arugula.

Caprese $21

A classic combination of sweet, blood red kumato tomatoes next to morsels of creamy mozzarella di bufala. (Kumatos are known for their higher fructose content and sweet flavor.) Accented with fresh green pesto.

Salmone $39

A big wild salmon steak on a bed of mild organic Swiss chard served with a caper lemon sauce. The salmon itself had been nicely cooked (we ordered it to be prepared per the chef’s recommendation), slightly browned on the outside but still pink and tender on the inside. Underneath, a heap of steamed spinach, which was a bit too soggy, flecked with chili flakes. The chard was pleasantly prepared but felt a bit disjointed in the context of the dish. Plated with tart capers and bright lemon zest.

Baccala $38

A vast fillet of creamy cod, crusted in thin slices of crispy potato. Served in a bowl of creamy sauce with diced black olives, crunchy pine nuts and sharp capers. Unfortunately, this dish looked better than it tasted. The flavors were jumbled together and, to my mind, the cod was just too huge.

Arrabbiata $21

This classic pasta dish was excellently executed. Thick threads of al dente pasta covered in a spicy arrabiatta sauce. Authentic and enjoyable.

Key lime cheesecake  $12

Although this dessert was very sweet and a bit too dense, we still enjoyed it. The cake was composed of two layers: a more gooey, creamy top and a denser, floury base. The top was flecked with lime rind and infused with tart, bright juice. Plated with a small scoop of coconut gelato and a handful of crushed almonds.

Gianduia $12

Our server insisted we order this option, explaining that it was the restaurant’s most popular dessert. We can certainly see why. Thin layers of moist hazelnut sponge on crisp hazelnut wafer, interspersed with layers of light, vibrant hazelnut cream and, finally, topped with hazelnut-infused gianduia chocolate. Very decadent and incredibly tasty.

When we ate at Casa Lever, we had the pleasure of sitting in their outdoor courtyard. While a bit noisy (they were playing loud euro-trashy music), we enjoyed the opportunity to dine en plein air. The food was so-so: Hackneyed modern Italian fare, which failed to delight or impress. Instead, we were commenting on the simple starters, the over-salted (and over-sized) fish and the excessively sweet desserts.

The interior (decorated like a 1960s space pod and peppered with Warhols) and the outdoor terrace are fun, but an excellent restaurant these do not make. Stop by for lunch if you’re working in the area but not worth a long journey uptown.

Casa Lever

390 Park Ave.

212-888-2700

#94 Frankies Spuntino 457

Crostini $8

Of the six options available, we selected two. On the left, a big scoop of gooey cremini mushroom infused with intense truffle oil and garnished with a big helping of grated parmesan. Next to it was a wonderfully moist, spicy eggplant caponata. Both were served on thick slices of crunchy, toasted bread.

Marinated olives $5, Charred cauliflower $6

We ordered a big bowl of salty mixed olives and then small portion of grilled cauliflower. The delicate florets had been covered in earthy olive oil and then cooked till they were slightly crunchy around the edges and lightly charred.

Sweet potato and sage ravioli $16

We weren’t sure what to make of this dish. The tender ravioli were filled with slightly sugary sweet potato but balanced with savory, peppery sage. However, these flavorful parcels were served in a watery parmesan broth, which made everything kind of soggy and, overall, seemed to confuse the dish. Instead, we would have preferred the pasta alone, without the distraction of a bland broth.

Braised octopus with dandelion greens $14

This big bowl of salad was rather disappointing. From the name, we expected a big serving of tender octopus with a small portion of dandelion greens. Instead, it was the other way around. A vast portion of bitter greens with a couple small morsels of octopus mixed in. Most of the time, I was rummaging through the leaves, hunting for small bites of the succulent seafood. All of this was tossed in a Castelvetrano vinaigrette, which is named after the Sicilian town where the owners own a brand of spicy olive oil. Unfortunately, the salad was overdressed, which further overpowered the delicate flavors of the soft and sweet octopus. Disappointing.

Vanilla bean crème brûlée $8

A pleasant but not particularly imaginative dish. Underneath the crackly shell was luxurious, vanilla-infused cream. Though, we found the top layer of sugar too thick and the cream too stodgy. 

Tiramisu $9

Without a doubt, one of my favorite desserts, Tiramisu is a hard dish to get right. The name means “pick me up,” which is considered to metaphorically mean, “make me happy.” It is normally made of ladyfingers dipped in coffee, layered with a light mixture of egg yolks, mascarpone cheese, liquor and cocoa.

At Frankies, we found the tiramisu was a bit too heavy and creamy. Coffee notes came through but weren’t quite strong enough bring the punch one hopes for. Plus, we missed the potent hits of coffee liqueur. This version wasn’t bad but we’ve certainly had better.

Overall, the food as Frankies is good but neither exciting nor excellent. We enjoyed the initial crostini very much, so much so that we ordered another cremini mushroom later in our meal. Otherwise, Chefs Frank Castronovo and Frank Falcinelli (thus, the name) present pleasant, generously portioned dishes that, unfortunately, fail to deliver on their promises. The octopus salad was disappointingly lacking in octopus, the attractive sounding pasta was ruined by its own attempt at complexity and the desserts were, quite frankly, rather uninspired.

While our server was very friendly, we have to call out the incredibly slow kitchen. It took us about 45 minutes to receive our two crostini, which surely must have been pre-prepared. After that, there was more waiting, as we sat hungrily eyeing up other diners, wondering whether our food would be next. It’s worth noting that the restaurant does have a very small kitchen but, to my mind, that’s no excuse.

On the other hand, Frankies is redeemed by its beautiful garden. Walk through the cozy restaurant and you’ll come out onto a vast gravel garden. There are wooden tables with candles, all underneath a big awning with strings of lightbulbs. It’s a really wonderful place to sit outside and enjoy a meal, especially on a balmy summer night. As long as you don’t expect incredible things from the kitchen, you’ll have a great evening. Plus, you get the pleasure of Brooklyn prices! 

Frankies Spuntino 457

457 Court St.

718-403-0033

#31 Seäsonal Restaurant and Weinbar

Tafelspitz $28

A true Austrian classic, tafelspitz, meaning literally “tip” (of meat), is boiled beef in a Viennese-style broth. The chef had used hearty shoulder meat and prepared it in a subtle, smoky oxtail consommé, with baby carrots and leeks. The beef was accompanied by three sauces: tart creamy horseradish, mild apple and gooey spinach. It was also served with two crunchy potato rösti (roughly grated potato that had been fried).

This dish had been excellently prepared. The meat was tender, the light broth clean yet flavorful and the accompaniments perfectly prepared. To my mind, it was faultless (though still very heavy).

Apfelstrudel $10

For dessert, I was advised that the only option without alcohol was the apple strudel. (The kirschtorte – a deconstruction of the traditional chocolate cake also looked delicious but included a strong liqueur.)

When it arrived, this strudel was wonderfully fragrant, with beautiful hits of cinnamon. Wrapped inside the crumbly, crunchy filo pastry shell was a big helping of hot, sweet and slightly tart granny smith apple mixed with raisins. This tidy package was lightly dusted with icing sugar. It was served with simple vanilla ice cream on a bed of chocolate crumbs. 

Together, Chefs Wolfgang Ban and Eduard Frauneder are a formidable pair. They put out impeccable, authentic Austrian foods with a modern twist. Even in the case of the tafelspitz, which is an incredibly hearty dish, they found a way to make it light and fresh, while staying true to its roots. For fans of the cuisine, this is unquestionably one of the best places to go in the city.

Where the restaurant falters a little is in its space and also its service. While the small space is very tricky to work with (it’s like a long and narrow corridor), it could still do with a bit of freshening up. The furniture seems a little dated, which makes the environment a bit sterile. To make matters worse, the staff were brusque (perhaps because they were overstretched), pushing me to try additional dishes I clearly didn’t want.

Ultimately, I wouldn’t choose to go back to Seäsonal. The food is very good but, quite simply, I don’t find Austrian cuisine that tasty. It’s very heavy, using meat, cream or both. In addition, the space itself feels a lot cheaper than the quality of the food. They should opt for a more intimate, cozy vibe to really encourage people to feel at home and enjoy a solid, impressively prepared meal.

Seäsonal Restaurant and Weinbar

132 W. 58th St.

212-957-5550

#33 Sushi of Gari

Toro

A thick piece of fatty toro tuna (taken from the belly of the fish). Garnished with light, sweet and tart daikon radish. Perfectly dense, moist rice.

Kanpachi

It was interesting to note that, as the chef was preparing the kanpachi, he delicately and deftly scored the top side of the fish. He placed a small helping of jalapeño sauce on each morsel (that was composed of sweet, crunchy, spicy chunks of pepper) and added a light glaze to the top. Served on a bed of clear seaweed noodles.

Red snapper (not pictured)

A thick piece of snapper, crowned with crunchy pine nuts and a tiny helping of green salad, dressed in a sweet balsamic vinaigrette.

Salmon

A beautiful, thick piece of fatty, creamy salmon. Lightly glazed and placed on a bed of rice with a hit of potent wasabi.

Black cod

Served warm, serrated and slightly char-grilled. Brushed with a smooth miso glaze. The smoky hints were an unusual and delicious deviation from the traditional black cod dish.

Japanese mackerel

A perfect slice of fish, garnished with a helping of sweet, mushy sesame-soy sauce. Mild and delicate flavors but thoroughly enjoyable.

Lobster

Brilliant, buttery meat that simply melted in my mouth (the color was incredible, too). Served on a bed of rice and accented with a traditional hit of wasabi.

Tuna tartare

A mound of tiny chunks of tender tuna, garnished with a few crunchy pine nuts. Served on a crisp wafer base and a cube of rice. A very interesting item, both in terms of texture (I loved the combination of soft with hard) and taste.

Fluke

A tasty piece of fluke (otherwise known as summer flounder) underneath a rich, gooey poached quail egg. Accented with a perfectly subtle truffle sauce. Delicious, deep flavors.

Salmon

A piece of salmon with a hot sautéed tomato. Garnished with a simple sauce, flecked with black sesame seeds. Not my favorite, as the tomato rather overpowered the fish and the rice.

Eel

A sweet, gooey mouthful of chopped eel, garnished with crisp sesame seeds. Placed on top of a sliver of rich avocado. An interesting creation, if a bit gimmicky.

Without a doubt, the food at Sushi of Gari is excellent. I sat at the sushi counter and had the pleasure of watching the talented chefs create their delicious items. Sashimi, sushi and rolls, all meticulously prepared, using some of the highest quality fish available. Their efforts are readily detectable in the food. Almost item in my omakase menu (where the chef sends out his best suggestions until you tell him to stop) brought an intense burst of pleasure. The flavors were fascinating and innovative, making everything feel very special. Though, Sushi of Gari isn’t for purists, as the chef has options using other, more international ingredients like foie gras, for instance. It’s also expensive. My 11 pieces of sushi came to a grand total of $87.65.

If you’re looking to explore a little bit, this is a perfect place to indulge your culinary curiosity. You certainly won’t be disappointed. 

Sushi of Gari (East Side)

402 E. 78th St.

212-517-5340

#84 15 East

Sushi $24

From left to right: fatty oh-toro tuna, creamy, freshly caught Copper River salmon and botan ebi (or spot prawn). Our favorite was the slightly sweet, perfectly smooth spot prawn.

Wild salmon and yellow tail $32

Two large filets of tender fish. A piece of creamy wild salmon and rich, fatty yellow tail. Infused with saikyo-miso (a sweet, golden yellow miso) and soy-ikura butter. Garnished with salty roe and watercress.

Hot soba with duck and green onions $26

A big bowl of hot, handmade and handcut soba noodles served with fresh wasabi. We ordered the tender, rich duck breast and crisp green onions. With a bit of extra pepper, the flavorful broth was good but a bit too sweet for our liking.

Cherry wood smoked duck $32 

Thinly sliced pieces of succulent, smoky duck breast, lightly charred but still rare. Served with mild shiitake mushrooms and sugary Satsuma yam (which is like a fluffier version of a sweet potato). Not hugely interesting but tasty nonetheless.

Almond tofu $9

Like a Japanese panna cotta, this dessert was a yummy slice of sweet cream. The homemade tofu was lightly infused with sake syrup and thinly sliced almond flakes. Plated with a scoop of sugary strawberry sorbet (which we found a bit sickly), fresh fruit and a crunchy almond tuille.

Rice pudding tempura $10

None of us had ever eaten rice pudding tempura before, so we were excited when our order eventually arrived. Inside a light, crunchy shell was a mild mouthful of creamy rice. While a bit bland and dry by itself, the rice pudding was quite tasty when mixed with the rich Dassai sake-kasu ice cream (Dassai is a premium brand of sake, while kasu this is the lees or rice solids left over after pressing the sake). 

As we made our way through the various stages of our meal, we discussed the art of Japanese cuisine and the highly sensitive palate required to enjoy it. To be able to fully enjoy the nuanced flavors of sushi, one must gradually learn to identify and appreciate their subtleties. At 15 East, these skills are rather important and we, unfortunately, weren’t quite adequately equipped. First off, it’s important to note that this isn’t just a sushi bar; you can order appetizers and main courses, choosing from meat, fish and noodles. However, throughout our meal, the flavors seemed consistently muted, leaving us satisfied but not dazzled. The duck, for instance, was well-prepared but nothing remarkable, as was the fish. Though, the soba is very tasty and, depending on what you order with it, quite reasonable.

As for the space, you can choose between a clean sushi counter or step into a dimly lit, cozy dining room. It’s not too formal and good for a more intimate evening (the omakase menu is supposed to be incredible). Oh, and it’s also a bit expensive.

15 East

15 E. 15th St.

212-647-0015